Britishness has a hard-to-define vibe.
Yes, it’s King Charles, Olivia Coleman, Toby Carvery, Burberry, Top Boy and Paddington, but it’s also Kylie Minogue (Australian), Elizabeth Debicki (also Australian), Nando's (South African), Joe & the Juice (Danish), A Series of Unfortunate Events (American) and – our topic of discussion for today – the Nike Tech Fleece (also American – Oregonian, to be specific).
As Vinay Manek, the senior buyer of high-end streetwear retailer Sevenstore, puts it, these days, “You can’t walk ten metres without seeing someone wearing Tech Fleece”.
He’s specifically talking about Liverpool – Sevenstore’s home – but it’s a truth that applies to cities, towns and villages nationwide.
Tech Fleece is undoubtedly the tracksuit of Britain.
Now, before we continue we ought to highlight that Tech Fleece is technically the name of the advanced material that makes up the tracksuit.
“Tech Fleece is a pliable, lightweight layer of plush foam situated between a soft cotton jersey which traps air to provide lightweight warmth, superior breathability, insulation and articulation,” says Luke Hammer, a senior apparel designer at Nike.
As with many Nike products, Hammer is keen to point out that Tech Fleece was originally designed for athletes.
“Tech Fleece is engineered to the exact specifications of championship athletes and inspired by icons at the top of their game,” he says. “Combining sport, style and comfort, Tech Fleece is everyday sportswear made innovative for everyday life – the modern look of sport and a wardrobe staple for all modern-day athletes.”
That’s the official word. But it’s no secret that the streets appropriated the technical textile via the tracksuits shortly after its inception.
“All the trappers in my ends always wore one,” says streetwear presenter FDFromtheFuture.
Natalie Humphries, the costume designer for Top Boy who dressed fan-favourite character Stefan in Tech Fleece for the show's final season, reckons its popularity with the roadmen stems from its insulating capabilities. “The innovative fabric has obvious appeal in terms of warmth for a UK wearer,” she writes over email.
Whereas burgeoning rapper LeoStayTrill is convinced its ubiquitousness has more to do with Nike's rapport with the streets. “I think people buy Tech Fleece because it’s Nike which is a brand that’s really trusted by the people of the UK,” he says over Zoom from a recording studio in West London.
Judging by projects like Nike x Corteiz (a collaboration between the sportswear giant and an independent streetwear label brand run by North West London's Clint419) and 'Nothing Beats a Londoner' (a campaign that starred Skepta, Giggs, Dave and other seminal British rappers), Nike deliberately preserves this time-honoured relationship.
“Nike knows how to control the culture,” says Daniel Nti, brand director of British streetwear resale chain Kick Game. “We used to see the likes of Skepta and other grime MCs in their Nike Tech Fleece tracksuits, and now it's the default look of Central Cee and other young UK rappers.”
But why does it particularly appeal to hip hop musicians?
“Rappers can afford to wear flashy stuff, but wearing pieces like a Tech Fleece helps the audience relate to the artist,” says LeoStayTrill who wore a Tech Fleece in his last music video. “I shot the Out the Margin video in New York and wanted to keep the UK element to it, so I put on the Tech Fleece to represent my people.”
Drake – a Torontonian, but a Brit at heart (Google: 'Drake Boy Better Know' and 'Drake Top Boy') – is also known to wear a Tech Fleece tracksuit. More so since his Nike sub-line Nocta began utilising Tech Fleece earlier this year to mark the patented technology's tenth anniversary.
Nocta's sleeker, looser interpretation of the Tech Fleece tracksuit was instantly beloved by the traditional wearers, but also artists, creative multi-hyphenates and other bona fide tastemakers, many of which embraced the material for the first time.
“The Nocta Tech Fleece is definitely helping Tech Fleece become fashionable,” says Leostaytrill.
“The Nocta Tech Fleeces are 10x better,” says FDFromtheFuture.
Sevenstore's Manek predicts the collaborative line will have a highly positive impact on Tech Fleece in the long run. “The Nocta collaboration will help to energise and authenticate Tech Fleece to a new consumer, which in turn will increase longevity,” he says. “The engagement and energy Drake brings to Nocta and his affinity with British youth culture make this feel like a true collaboration.”
And actually, it already has. By no coincidence, Nike introduced open-hem wide-leg trousers and relaxed-fit sweatshirts to its mainline collection following the success of the Nocta drop.
Nocta Tech Fleece Open Hem Pant 'Cobalt Blue Tint'
The material used to form the mainline pieces is also new and improved. “Our new Tech Fleece apparel honours the past, respecting the heritage and craft of the timeless product, while improving the material even further, delivering legendary lightweight warmth and even more comfort for the next generation," it says.
Nike's 'Don't Sweat the Tech-nique' campaign starring the likes of Manchester City's Phil Foden and Wimbledon champion Carlos Alcaraz efficaciously showcases its glow-up.
It also shifts the focus back to sports whilst the Nocta line maintains Tech Fleece's relationship with the music industry and, in turn, the streets.
Elsewhere in the Swooshverse, Tech Fleece has entered its Fashion era.
Tenth anniversary line 'Tech Fleece Reimagined' is inspired by the runway: it sees buttoned shackets replace zip-up hoodies and tailored trousers replace tracksuit joggers.
The absence of branding and the limited colour palette – black, cream and beige – radiates quiet luxury; and implies the possibilities for the Tech Fleece franchise are endless.
So, the future looks like Tech Fleece for every Brit, then. The athletes and the artists. The rappers and the trappers. Even the dapper dans that 'don't do' tracksuits.
