Whether you take holiday recommendations from the Romantic poets or step your mast to TikTok travelogues, everyone agrees that Lake Como, in the northern reaches of Italy, is one of the most breathtaking places on earth. An oasis for the super-rich, super-powerful and super-famous for centuries, it’s almost certainly the most glamorous. Where else, for example, could you reasonably expect to bump into George Clooney doing a big shop? Hollywood, perhaps – but would the LAPD allow you to loiter outside his house for as long as you want in a wood-panelled speedboat? That’s why they call it la dolce vita.
Lake Como shimmers with expectation; the preposterously turquoise waters and the lush gardens that scale its wish-bone shaped shores, dotted with 19th century villas and backdropped by alpine vistas. But the promise of paradise can often lead to rookie errors, particularly in the planning stages – and the Lombardian lake district, with its wiry roads, exorbitant taxi fares, irregular public transport services and unpredictable subtropical climate, will take glee in punishing you for any unearned nonchalance. That’s why we’ve pulled together a step-by-step guide that will help you get the most out of a short trip.
How to get around
If you do decide to go car-less, most travellers will arrive by train into Como San Giovanni station, which sits a short walk up from Como’s Old Town and has good connections to Milan’s two airports (Malpensa and Linate), ditto the capital city’s central station. You could also fly into Bergamo, often the most affordable route via low-cost airlines, which has good connections to the less touristy trail-haven of Lecco on the south-eastern shore of the lake.
If you’re the kind of person who, at this point, would usually place their fate in the hands of Google Maps: don’t do that. It will lead you to bus stops that are no longer in use and result in a lot of wandering – not in itself a bad thing, but Como’s trademark beauty lies beyond its main hub. There is also a not-insignificant chance that you’ll find yourself in a rain-storm, wishing you'd pre-booked a taxi. Uber won’t come to your rescue, and the limited number of cabs doing the rounds will waste no time in decimating your holiday budget. So what to do? The main bus terminal, ASF Autolinee, is a 15-minute walk away from San Giovanni, and right next to Como’s other train station, Como Lago. Buses arrive sporadically and are generally crammed, but it’s a scenic, practical and affordable way to make your way around.
If your hotel sits in one of the pier towns, or near enough, then it goes without saying that catching a ferry is the best option to maximise your day of sightseeing; depending on how much luggage you have, it will allow you to experience a few different towns before you settle down at your accommodation. Buy a one-day ticket beforehand and remember that there are two routes, slow and fast, neither of which travel late into the evening.
What to do
Visit Bellagio
The liveliest and most famous town in the area, not to mention one of the longest to get to by car, it would be a mistake to take Bellagio's Las Vegas associations to heart and dismiss it as a tourist trap. There’s a reason it’s called the “Pearl of Lake Como”, after all. Perched on a hilly promontory known as Triangolo Lariano, its position in the middle of the lake offers unparalleled views of the water and everything that surrounds (particularly if you set up shop in Punta Spartivento, an elevated park in the northern most part of the town). Then there’s the luxury shopping boutiques, Romanesque churches, beautiful gardens, waterfront cafes and, of course, the grand villas – though the best of those can be found elsewhere...
Then take in the triangle
There's plenty to enjoy off the beaten path, but not much that a whistle stop tour will allow. If you do choose the ferry route (as you should), then there are a few other less bustling towns in the mid-section of the lake that you should check out. Varenna is a traditional village on the eastern shore, easily accessed from Bellagio, which features the very nice Villa Monastero and a botanical garden, as well as the scenic Passeggiata Degli Innamorati promenade, otherwise known as "Lover’s Walk". Meanwhile, Menaggio – another stop on the so-called "golden triangle" of Como – is full of unmissable panoramic points and churches. But perhaps the most famous and beautiful villa in Como, the magnificent 18th-century Villa Carlotta, calls the small lakeside village of Tremezzo its home; a ten-minute drive from Menaggio, make sure it factors into your plans (Villa Balbianello, in the harder-to-reach fishing village of Il Dosso d'Avedo on the western shore, is also a highlight).
Rent a boat
Yes, it's expensive. And yes, even more so if you go Full Ripley and hire one of those gleaming wood-panelled "riva" boats that you see in the films, which of course you will, because you're in Como and there's no way in hell you'll be seen schlepping about in a normal speedboat. But it really is worth the price – an unforgettable time that allows you to experience the lake in all its majesty. Hotels with private jetties across the coast will often provide the option of rental, but there are plenty of companies that can set you up for a few bumpy, beautiful hours ripping across the blue.
Ignore all of that
In truth, a quick visit to Lake Como is best spent bathing in the undistilled serenity of it all and becoming a total cliche in the process. No one will begrudge you spending your whole trip relaxing by the pool with an ever-diminishing glass of Aperol Spritz at hand, the sounds of Spotify's 'Italian Vintage Summer' playlist ringing in your ears. That prospect becomes even more enticing the further towards the lake's edge that you go – and there are plenty of hotels down there that will allow you to swim around in the water itself, akin to diving into a painting.
Where to stay
il Sereno Hotel
Every single one of il Sereno's 40 rooms offers a view of Lake Como. If that seems impossible, it's nothing compared to the view itself, which is so striking that it makes your room's floor-to-ceiling window seem more like a green screen. Hop onto your balcony and you'll see that the glittering lake, heated infinity pool and lush mountain backdrop are indeed reality, no matter how much they look like a screensaver.
While Lake Como is famed for its charming classical villas, il Sereno is a thoroughly modern tour de force. Although there's history in its foundations – the stone arches in its Michelin-starred restaurant are those of a former boathouse – the hotel is a striking contemporary square of wood, bronze and glass, decorated with vertical greenery climbing up its exterior. The rooms themselves are airy, light and equipped with everything you need.
Of course, you won't be staying in your room much – not when you can rent one of the hotel's aforementioned Ernesto Riva Jetto boats for a self-driven, two-hour traipse around the lake (complete with directions to George Clooney's gaff). You can also climb (or jump) straight into the lake from the hotel's sunbed area or take a five-minute walk up to the tiny town of Torno, where you can see the stunning stained glass in the local church, the Parrocchia di Santa Tecla, or munch on fried fish lakeside at the Il Belvedere restaurant.
il Sereno's own restaurant, naturally, is worth a visit – there's no glass in the arches overlooking the lake, giving it a charming indoor-outdoor feel. Chef Raffaele Lenzi has created three tasting menus contrasting classic and contemporary flavours for a unique dining experience.
Villa Làrio
There's nothing quite like a lift in a cliffside... except maybe two. Take the first down to Villa Lario's reception, restaurant and rooms, each decorated with stylish modern furnishings that complement the villa's classical yellow exterior. Take the second lift down to the lake itself, where you can sun yourself on the private pier and admire the cloud-tickled alps opposite.
Villa Làrio offers an intimate home-away-from-home feel with, of course, plenty of added luxury. With 18 suites total, you feel like you're in your own oasis, slap bang in the middle of two acres of private gardens. The villa's infinity pool is the kind of thing you can't help but laugh to look at – so idyllic that it hardly seems real.
Breakfast is themed, naturally – opt for an "I'm going for swim in the lake" and be set up for your day with an açai bowl with a side of protein-filled egg and ham, or choose an "I'm going for a morning nap around the pool" to be plied with croissants and avocado toast. These activities – plus free collective yoga sessions – are available on-site but it's also the perfect place to start excursions as rental boats can meet you on the pontoon.
