Looking to get rid of those persistent blackheads? We're glad you’re here, not just because we think we give solid advice, but because this is unequivocally the least emotionally scarring page about blackhead removal on the entirety of the internet.
Don’t click on those Youtube videos. Don’t even look at the thumbnails. The world wide web can be a dark place, especially to an unassuming person simply looking to nix a few spots in time for the weekend.
Instead, keep your skin barrier and your sanity intact, and follow this trustworthy guide to blackhead removal by an expert who very much knows what is good for you, and what absolutely isn’t.
What are blackheads?
Really, blackheads are nothing to be scared of. They're just oxidised oil.
“Blackheads occur when there is a build-up of sebum (the oil naturally produced in the skin) and dead cells in an enlarged, open pore,” explains Andrea Pfeffer, founder of London-based facial studio Pfeffer Sal. “The sebum reacts with the oxygen in the air – a process known as oxidisation – giving the exposed build-up its dark appearance.”
Which skin types can get blackheads?
There's no skin-type lottery here: blackheads will come for all of us. However, if you’re on the oilier side, you’re likely to get more as you’re naturally producing more grease.
“Most commonly, blackheads appear in areas where we have a higher density of sebaceous glands; the chin, nose, and forehead,” says Pfeffer. Men's skin also tends to be thicker and oilier, which can make blackheads a particularly recurrent problem.
Should I use a blackhead strip?
Forget everything you’ve seen from those backstreet dermatologists on YouTube (chances are, you’d like to anyway), because those blackhead strips are a hard no. “They are just too harsh on the skin and actually lead to more issues than they solve,” agrees Pfeffer. “There are so many fantastic ingredients and products out there now that these strips really should be a thing of the past.”
Spawned some time in the Nineties, these miracle-touting strips actually use a strong adhesive to pull out everything they come into contact with – including the top layer of your actual skin. A lot of the 'gunk' you'll notice stuck to the strip isn't in fact blackheads, but your sebaceous filaments, which are very much best left on your face. “This causes irritation and redness as well as leading to broken capillaries around the nose, which are far more difficult to remove than blackheads,” says Pfeffer.
“There are also no real active ingredients in these strips, so while they might remove any blackheads you’re experiencing, they aren’t going to have a preventative effect as they are not addressing the causes," she adds. In short, you might as well be using duct tape.
If you want to manually remove a serious bout of blackheads, it’s best to leave it to the experts and book in for an extraction-based facial appointment. However, a strategic skincare routine may well be enough to keep them at bay.
So getting rid of blackheads is pretty easy, then?
OK, getting rid of blackheads might not be as simple as ripping a wax strip across your nose, but it's far from rocket science. While you can't stop those tiny black spots from developing altogether, a well-honed kit of skincare will sweep the majority of them away.
Blackhead removal: cleansers
First up: make sure you’re using a face wash – and using it properly.
“You need to make sure that you’re cleansing regularly and thoroughly as this is the first step to shifting that excess oil and debris,” says Pfeffer. “Spend at least a minute washing your face in the evening, double cleansing if you can, and focus on areas where you find you have the most congestion.” Don't slack off in the morning either: a quick cleanse will sweep away the oil that your face has been marinating in overnight.
This everyday cleanser makes light work of removing oil and doesn't leave skin feeling tight or stripped. It'll work well on every skin type.
A more 'active' option, Medik8's gel cleanser contains both AHA and BHA acids to work on a dull surface as well as deeper congestion.
Dermatologists love this brand, and for good reason: it delivers real results and doesn't cost the earth.
As the name suggests, this one contains salicylic acid, clay and scrubby silica beads to do a really thorough job of eliminating blackheads.
Blackhead removal: acids
Not half as scary as it sounds, salicylic acid is known as a 'chemical exfoliator' in the skincare world. It's an effective ingredient for reducing blackheads, thanks to its ability to work within your pores. “It’s lipophilic, which means that it’s attracted to and dissolves oil. Unlike other exfoliators that stay on the surface of the skin, salicylic acid can get into the pore and ‘scoop’ out the debris,” says Pfeffer.
There are plenty of great salicylic-acid products on the shelves these days: look for it in a swipe-on pad, liquid toner, or a targeted spot treatment.
Ignore the ridiculous name: all you need to know is this no-frills serum will get rid of those blackheads on your nose within a week.
The grooming editors' go-to, this cult toner is your best bet at keeping blackheads at bay for good. Use it every other night, after cleansing and before moisturiser.
Do two jobs in one with Vichy's clarifying everyday moisturiser.
The latest launch from acclaimed grooming brand Medik8 is a liquid toner steeped with salicylic acid. It's gentle enough for sensitive skin, but effective enough to tackle both blackheads and other breakouts.
Blackhead removal: clay
Clay is another great tool to utilise in your fight against blackheads. Pfeffer advises using a clay mask once or twice a week to mop up any excess oil that could evolve into blackheads, and draw out impurities and blocked oil from within the skin.
“Apply onto areas of congestion, but don’t let the mask dry as you run the risk of drawing out too much oil, which can lead to your skin going into oil-production overdrive,” she says. It's all in the balance.
This nice big tub of Amazonian white clay makes a great follow-up to the brand's universal cleanser.
Horace's bright-blue face mask contains kaolin clay as well as antioxidant plant extracts and silica to control excess oil production. It's also remarkably well priced.
Spend on your serums; save on your clay masks. This one works just as well as a pricier alternative.
Malin and Goetz Clarifying Clay Mask
This weekly deep-cleanser will sort out excess oil and sebum in as little as ten minutes.
Blackhead removal: retinol
A retinol serum is your best bet if you're hoping to tackle the joys of ageing on top of those persistent blackheads. A good one is essentially your skincare all-rounder: it will gradually resurface fine lines and pigmentation, all while keeping blackheads and other blemishes at bay. They're hardcore though, so only the silly jump in at the deep end. All the options below are gentle enough for a newcomer.
This starter serum we always recommend, Medik8's Crystal Retinal 1 is a failsafe choice.
One of the sensitive souls, La Roche-Posay's retinol serum takes the slow and steady approach.
Malin + Goetz Retinol Correcting Serum
Sensitive skin comes first at Malin + Goetz: the brand only releases products that are non-irritating yet highly effective. The brand's first retinol serum is finally here, and it instantly gets our approval.
Augustinus Bader's famously effective cocktail of nutrients now comes supercharged with time-release retinol. Consider this your one-and-done anti-ageing ally.
Blackhead removal: targeted treatments
Even once you've got a good, consistent skincare routine sorted, blackheads can still creep back from time to time.
If you've noticed an especially aggressive cluster of blackheads (or any other spot sub-type, really) on your face, a targeted spot treatment will amp up the clarifying powers of your everyday line-up. Try an on-the-spot gel or oil-absorbing serum. Some are even discreet enough to be worn out of the house.
REN's gently-does-it philosophy means this treatment will keep all skin types happy.
This fact-acting blend of salicylic acid and sulphur will dry out larger breakouts overnight.
This fast-acting gel is ideal for nixing hefty breakouts right before an event.
Succinic acid is a skincare hero for balancing overzealous oil production. With salicylic acid and sulfur to boot, this is a spot treatment that doesn't mess around.
