If you have even a passing interest in men’s skincare, you’ve likely encountered retinol before. Also known as vitamin A, this ‘active’ ingredient is the only one that dermatologists don’t argue about. It’s universally confirmed to be the best thing – or the only thing, depending who you ask – that can genuinely treat the aesthetic perils of ageing, from pigmentation to fine lines.
While there’s solid scientific proof that retinol is capable of ironing out your forehead wrinkles, it’s conversely also likely to induce eyebrow-raising. Retinol is the term widely used in the industry, but there’s actually an entire family of vitamin A derivatives (or ‘retinoids’) being used in skincare, with straight-up retinol being only one.
The most well-known members of the retinoid family include retinol, retinol esters and retinol aldehydes. Once absorbed by the skin, each one is converted to the active stuff: retinoid acid. Every retinoid product on the shelf will contain one of these derivatives, and each one varies in strength and speed.
You’ll likely be inclined to deduce the fastest, strongest product out there and slap it straight on – but more is not always more when it comes to retinoids. As these formulas work by accelerating cell turnover, going too hard, too fast can leave you with irritation, redness and dry, flaking skin. If you value your skin barrier, moderation is good.
It’s a fine balancing act, and when it comes to brands that get it right, Stockholm-based Verso ranks high. Choosing function over fluff – a rarity in the skincare realm – the brand is forensically focused on creating retinoid products for every skin type, and its latest launch takes things one step further. Brand founder Lars Fredriksson has collaborated with a molecular scientist to create an entirely new (and swiftly patented) retinoid molecule, dubbed NEAR 1.
The molecule joins vitamin A with niacinamide: another industry darling praised for its brightening properties. Fused together at molecular level, the two have been found to stabilise each other, meaning you get maximum retinoic acid potency – but without any of the common irritation.
These two actives have been dropped into formulations together before, but it’s the molecular-level fusing that gives Verso industry bragging rights. “Vitamin A is sensitive and breaks down rapidly, making it ineffective while increasing the risk of irritation. This is why it’s so important to make sure vitamin A remains stable. In creating NEAR1, we found the new molecule to increase both the activity and the stability of the vitamin A, especially when looking at brightening properties. The result was unexpected but of course fantastic,” explains Fredriksson.
The first product to feature NEAR 1 is Super Elixir: a retinoid face oil that all skin types will get on with. A couple of drops, two or three nights per week, will gradually fade sun damage (we told you to wear SPF), refine pores and tackle wrinkles.
It’s a no-fuss, highly efficacious formula that relies on fastidiously honed science – “we didn’t just pick an exotic extract from the bottom of the sea,” says Frederiksson – not grooming-industry puffery. The admittedly good-looking bottle is merely a bonus.
