Curry and beers (Esquire style)

Curry at lunchtime is something of an antilogy: too heavy, too rich and (often) leaving much to be desired in the sophistication stakes. However, Trishna disabused us of all those notions from the first bite of perfectly pleated papadum (accompanied by sweet salsa and spicy shrimp).

If you’ve managed to keep London’s Trishna off your radar so far, then the top line is this: it’s an intimate, sleek and thoroughly modern Indian which majors in seafood, especially crab. And rightly so: from the dishes we tasted, the Dorset crab in butter (fresh, unctuous, unfussy) was superlative, while tiny crabcakes with delightfully acidic tomatoes came a close second. Equally, both the seafood salad and the guinea fowl tikka salad had us in raptures: delicately spiced, interestingly textured and perfectly cooked and presented.

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We went for wine to match our meal: a stellar pinot noir (Esquire’s favourite grape, so we’re biased) from Germany — Neuenahrer Schieferlay 2006 — topped the list, and matched the warmth/richness of the guinea fowl perfectly, while the Fleur Blanche (a chardonnay/roussanne blend from the Languedoc) added its floral perfume to the delicate crab meat.

we did notice that for an extremely reasonable (when you consider the standard of what you’re getting) £54, you can indulge in the five-course tasting menu matched with beers, such as the champagne-yeast based Kasteel Cru. We’re going back to test it out at the earliest opportunity.

Trishna, 15 -17 Blandford Street, London W1, +44 20 7935 5624 www.trishnalondon.com

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