Ever conscious of the fact that sushi is our favourite food but sushi restaurants our least favourite places to linger – too much like the enforced IKEA conveyor belt experience – Esquire was pleased to discover Hi Sushi.
The one we visited was in the opera quarter of London’s theatre land but there are six more around the country. The good thing, apart from the food, which we’ll get to later, is that they all look different. The décor of the one we went to is a kind of cross between a Japanese garden and a sea clipper with lots of bamboo and dark oak. While on paper this may sound like an inner city children’s theme park done by someone on a job creation scheme, in the hands of Image Infinity’s Jeff Kwan it works just so, affording a relaxed ambience that attempts to recreate the intimacy of traditional Japanese eating and drinking houses.
The food – largely based around the robata grill - differs from many recent Japanese restaurant (horrible word alert) ‘offerings’ in that executive chef Eric Fu (previously of Roka) has gone for seasonally adapted yaki grills and tempuras cooked in iron bowls alongside the more usual sushi and sashimi favourites, black cod miso and wasabi prawns. We’re now on a mission to try them all.
Hi Sushi, 27 Catherine Street, Opposite Oliver!, Theatre Royal, Tel: 020 7 836 9398