Pie and Pint Sundays @ Rochelle at ICA
It may or may not have crossed your radar that Monday heralds National Pie Week. And if it hasn’t, well: what do you think we’re here for, eh? Much as the nation loves a Greggs in moments of (arguable) weakness, you have a slightly more refined option available at Rochelle at the ICA, which has recently launched a Sunday treat: on ‘pie and a pint Sundays,’ a mere tenner will get you a pie and a pint of Peroni or Guinness, or a glass of house wine.
Margot Henderson and Melanie Arnold’s restaurant on The Mall is nestled up on a mezzanine at the back of the Institute of Contemporary Arts; the perfect hideaway if trying to ignore the forthcoming week. The menu is constantly changing but you can always rely on bangingly fresh and seasonal ingredients, with the emphasis, predominantly, on making you gurgle with delight. The pies are made with either suet or puff pastry, and fillings include rural pheasant with prune and trotter, and chicken, leek and wild mushroom. If splashing out on a pudding, there is usually a salted caramel and chocolate tart, and some rhubarb and custard on the dessert list…
The Mall, London, SW1Y 5AH; ica.art/rochelle-canteen
Ooty
Upmarket Indian restaurants may abound these days, but they don’t get any the less exciting. And Marylebone is now home to a swish new one specialising, more unusually, in the cuisine of southern India. Taking its name from the hill station in Tamil Nadu, Ooty’s dining room is smart and prettily decorated with lush green jungle scenes covering the walls, pastel pink velvet chairs and rose gold trimmings. Food is dainty, thoughtful and, although it does succumb to novelty, doesn’t wallow in it.
In the starters, familiar classics like spicy lamb cutlets and peanut chicken skewers both boast charming flavours, a pipette of spicy sauce pepping up the latter no end. Move onto peppery duck topped with crispy bits of fried roti or the plump Keralan lime lobster, which comes with black squid ink rice cakes and coconut tones that smack of resplendent sunsets melting onto water. The tadka dhal is light as a feather without sacrificing any complexity – a refreshing side ready to be mopped up with parotta flatbreads; sensible portion sizes make going the full shebang comfortably doable.
There is a sneaky cocktail bar downstairs (sticking to the same, concise drinks menu as the main restaurant and carrying on the overarching railway theme), and the summer will bring a more casual restaurant next door, named Ooty Station. Prepare to hear far more about this place.
66 Baker Street, London, W1U 7DJ; ooty.co.uk
BB Burger @ Bar Boulud
Nearly nine months after a hugely dramatic – and devastating – fire, the Mandarin Oriental is gearing up to its grand reopening. The palatial Knightsbridge hotel had already been nearing the end of a huge renovation project before the blaze, so the sense of anticipation has been seriously ramped up. But, in the meantime, the restaurants have been valiantly ploughing on since December and, as the rain and greyness returns and we start to really need some comfort food, down we mosey to the subterranean Bar Boulud, which is sporting a refreshed menu under its new executive chef, John Barber.
There is delicious grilled octopus with rocket salad, almonds, orange and hummus, there are steamed mussels in a white wine and cream sauce to be soaked up in crusty bread, there are buttery snails with brioche, and there is the good old Croque Monsieur for when only a cheese toastie will do. All are glorious, but sometimes it’s a simple burger that hits the spot (and pays heed to the New York version of Daniel Boulud’s bistro). The signature BB doesn’t just boast a beef patty, but pulled short rib, foie gras, horseradish mayo and confit tomato as well. Rough day? Order this with a glass of red and some chips.
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7LA; barboulud.com
Mardi Gras @ Plaquemine Lock
Parade season may have begun weeks ago, but this is the final push to Tuesday night’s finish line for Mardi Gras revellers. And if you’re not going to be in New Orleans itself, then journey to Islington instead (same thing, right?) where Jacob Kenedy’s Louisiana-inspired pub on the Regent’s Canal will be hosting a four-day festival of food and drink and music and all good things, from Saturday lunchtime through to Tuesday night.
If you haven’t yet tried the food here, now is your chance. Think devilled eggs, gumbo, buttermilk fried chicken, soft-shell crab, Cajun charcuterie and, of course, beignets (theirs come with chicory coffee caramel). And don’t forget the oysters. Loads of them. They’ll be going for £1 on Monday night but will also be available from the normal menu throughout served en brochette (on skewers, wrapped in bacon and fried). Wash it all down with a beer from the ample selection or, indeed, take part in Monday's cocktail masterclass.
139 Graham Street, London, N1 8LB; plaqlock.com
Bourbonoffee Pancakes @ Foxlow
And if you’re sticking to straightforward pancakes for Shrove Tuesday then your choices are plentiful across the capital. We’re rather intrigued by Nobu Shoreditch’s soba versions (made with Japanese buckwheat, topped with maple syrup, blueberry yuzu compote, miso pecan butter and Chantilly cream).
But if, like us, you’re a sucker for the American-style buttermilk ones, you’re in luck: the perennially chic Chiltern Firehouse will serve them with blueberries, crème fraiche and maple syrup; they are bottomless (yes – limitless after your first portion) at Fitzrovia’s Riding House Café and its sister restaurants (Rail House Café in Victoria and Village East in Bermondsey); and Foxlow have souped-up theirs with bananas, banana cream, pecan praline and not one but two sauces (chocolate and bourbon toffee, hence 'bourbonoffee'), all proceeds going to the Magic Breakfast charity. Their venues are in Clerkenwell, Balham and just off Golden Square in Soho.
Tuesday 5thMarch; various locations (Foxlow; Chiltern Firehouse; Nobu Shoreditch; Riding House Cafe)
Pig Cheek Bacon Carbonara @ Bocca Di Lupo *
Jacob Kenedy’s upscale Italian celebrated its 10th birthday a few months back, but it hasn't stood still in that time – in fact, it’s just launched the first in a series of regional tasting menus.
This season’s is inspired by Rome and the wider Lazio region’s fertile hills. The four courses comprise pan-fried salted cod with olives and potatoes in a tomato sauce, then a rich and complex take on a carbonara made with guanciale (that’s pig cheek bacon – creamy and smoky), followed by braised ox tail served on the bone with a tomato and celery stew. Up last are plump bomba calda doughnuts filled with pastry cream. Wine pairings come from Marco Carpineti’s excellent winery to the south of Rome. And our insider tip: get two pig cheek bacon carbonaras. You’ll need them.
12 Archer Street, London W1D 7BB; boccadilupo.com
* Bocca Di Lupo words by Tom Nicholson
