Salt Beef Sarnie @ Blacklock Shoreditch
You may think of a steak restaurant as an evening kind of deal (or a serious commitment for lunchtime) but you’ll have to rethink now that Blacklock has launched its special lunch menu, for a quicker and less formal taste of what they can do. Nodding to its historical location, the Shoreditch branch is now offering a concise menu of pies and sandwiches from Monday – Saturday, from 12pm: they’re all under £10 and all fiendishly hard to resist.
We’re making a beeline for the salt beef sarnie, which is inspired by the old Jewish delis of Brick Lane and Soho’s infamous Nosh bar, close to Blacklock’s first site: challah bread is stuffed to bursting with cured brisket and topped with sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, pickles and a Russian dressing. Or there’s a straightforward steak sarnie done with a hanger cut in a ciabatta roll, with bone marrow, mustard mayo and watercress for a rich, peppery kick. Or some days, only the East End pie and mash will do. If you work nearby, you’re a very lucky individual.
28 – 30 Rivington Street, London, EC2A 3DZ; theblacklock.com
Honey-Roasted Salmon @ A.O.K. Kitchen & Bakery
An odd kind of name, we grant you. But it’s meant to imply that, whatever your dietary inclinations, you’ll be in good hands at this new Marylebone restaurant. So if you have to (or choose to) avoid gluten or dairy or meat or edible flowers, you won’t have to skip straight to the one dish that you can eat, thereby missing out on that cheery, if occasionally agonising interlude of menu deliberation. If, on the other hand, you’re simply looking for a tasty list of dishes then you’re also in luck.
Everything here is fresh but satisfying – healthy, but not in your face with it. Start off with burratina with sour beetroot and orange, or the zingy ceviche, or beef carpaccio sprinkled with Gorgonzola and hazelnuts. And move on to the tenderest salmon you ever did eat: honey-roasted to blacken the top, it’s practically silken and comes with verjus, daikon, apple and shimeji mushrooms. Tiger prawns are doused in Moroccan chermoula and the real surprise comes from the ‘seasonal vegetables’, which can so easily be dull and worthy but are roasted in a rose-shaped swirl, the sweet potato releasing its, well, sweetness to form a crispy crumb on top.
That said, they proudly eschew refined sugar here, which is potentially why the desserts don’t sing, but the tropical fruit tartare has lovely flavours to round off your palate. This place is cute as a button to look at and open all day long, with a bakery downstairs. Delightful.
52-55 Dorset Street, London, W1U 7NQ; aokkitchen.co.uk
Chocolate & Caramel Tart @ Joe Allen
There’s always time for a quick stop at Joe Allen for bistro fare that truly warms the cockles. And the arrival of the more spring-like weather also heralds a bunch of new dishes on the menu of this Covent Garden institution: cheese and bacon croquettes with truffle mayo, pan-fried scallops with beurre blanc plus broad beans and peas, a vegetarian take on their beloved chicken Parmigiana made with aubergine, and confit duck leg served with Dauphinoise potatoes, red cabbage and apple, to name a few. Or, you know, just have the sticky ribs again (there’s a reason everybody talks about them). But never forget how much this place relishes its comfort puddings: in addition to the usual cheesecake and pecan pie, there is a new chocolate and caramel tart, served with candied walnuts and vanilla ice cream. If you’re not drooling at the sight of it, you’re barely human.
And if you’re musically inclined, then you’ll be pleased to hear that a new set of musical brunches has now started, wherein the casts of West End shows put on a performance while you enjoy Sunday brunch. The next one features this year’s Olivier Awards hot tip 'Come From Away' on 24th March, and booking is advised. But, then again, there’s normally a piano tinkling away anyhow...
2 Burleigh Street, London, WC2E 7PX; joeallen.co.uk
All. The. Sashimi @ Akira
If you’re after something a little more zen, then head to Akira on High Street Kensington. It is located on the first floor of Japan House, which is a cultural centre created by the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs incorporating a shop, gallery, and this calming modern restaurant from head chef Shimizu Akira. All of the chefs turn around and shout “Irrashaimase!” to welcome you as you walk in. After that, the minimalist room dies back down to its low-level hum – the lack of music or clatter is hugely refreshing, especially after a long day.
A useful way to navigate the comprehensive menu is to order one of the set omakase ones: a three-course robata or sushi version is £60, will give you lots of variety, and really rather a lot of food. After a starter of sea bass and watercress carpaccio (or whatever the special is that day), you are presented with a box of raw treats for a round of sushi pick ‘n’ mix. Each of the 15 compartments houses a different sashimi, including salmon, eel, normal tuna, fatty tuna, a cress salad, a sort of Japanese frittata, some umami custard topped with edamame beans – it’s all happening here. You could spend hours over it. Next, you’ll either get grilled wagyu beef skewers or sushi, with soup and more sushi on the side. This gets served dramatically on big black boulders (no need to ask why – it seems to work) and is succulent and a little more warming, but no less fun. Top tip: make sure you visit the bathrooms before you go – the Japanese make way better loos than we ever will.
110 – 111 Kensington High Street, London, W8 5SA; japanhouselondon.uk
