‘Nduja Pizza @ Pucci Mayfair
Say the words “Pucci” and “pizza” near to one another, and anybody who remembers the old Chelsea institution will pipe up with a mix of incredulity and glee – their eyes will widen, a mild smirk flickering at the corner of their mouths. 'Pucci' Albanese’s King's Road restaurant was party central in the Eighties and Nineties (with celebrities of varying ranks regularly in residence). It may have floundered later on, before finally closing in 2010, but the sense of nostalgia at the mere mention of its name is palpable… and infectious. Because what it lacked in suavity it made up for in fun, plain and simple, and that is what Albanese’s son, Rufus, is seeking to recreate in his new Mayfair restaurant, in an ode to his father’s famous panache.
Peruse the food selection with the aid of its “nibbles” (molten parmesan croquettes in particular) and then order a few small plates as a primer for pizza. There are perfectly lovely mains, like tuna steak and Tagliata and duck breast, but it’s the starters that will really get you salivating and it’s the pizzas that are the heart of the place. Delicate sea bass crudo will freshen the palate, and rich hulks of pulled beef brisket sit atop a bed of hummus, sprinkled with roasted chickpeas for a bit of spicy crunch. The pizzas have been modernised by head chef Tilly Turbett (whose previous experience includes Noma and Gordon Ramsay Restaurants) though they still boast laudably thin and crispy bases. There is a succinct selection, from which the ‘nduja option screams out: fiery splotches of it are dolloped between creamy ones of burrata and finished with a drizzle of honey for one nice, big, no-nonsense circle of satisfaction. The décor suits its swish location but with an air of irreverence, as though it doesn’t take itself too seriously. Rufus warmly checks on every table and, what’s this? A DJ kicks off as the evening approaches the night. It’s not exactly chic but it’s darned tasty, smart and, happily, proves that panache runs in the family.
39 Maddox Street, London, W1S 2PP; puccimayfair.com
La Gran Carbonara @ Gloria Trattoria*
In similarly flamboyant style, another advocate of the great carbohydrate revival has opened across town in Shoreditch. From French restaurant group Big Mama, who have been serving up bloody steak and pillow-soft pizzas to the Right Bank for years, Gloria is a stylish Italian trattoria and their first restaurant outside France. Everything is decadent, from the luxurious 1950’s Capri-inspired dining room decked with marble to the velour banquettes lining the sunken kitchen downstairs, where revellers can eat until 2am.
The food is similarly unrestrained with a ten-level lasagne and a carbonara to share that is made with home-made spaghetti chitarra and crispy guanciale, served in the whole round of a Pecorino wheel. There is a salad option in case you can’t bring yourself to feast on carbs alone (with Amalfi lemon ricotta and chargrilled octopus tentacle), but mostly the menu is a love letter to indulgence – an invitation to let your hair down with rum punch cocktails and a table filled with 'cicchetti' like burrata heart, or truffle and fennel salami. This place epitomises the mantra ‘go big or go home’, but does your own fridge have a giant gelato profiterole bomb just waiting for you if you choose the latter? Thought not.
54-56 Great Eastern St, London EC2A 3QR: bigmammagroup.com
Spicy Chicken Bao @ On The Bab Soho
Fans of the bao buns at On The Bab are in luck, as Linda Lee may have closed the express (and rather petite) Marylebone version of her Korean restaurants, but she has replaced it with a two-floored eat-in site just behind Shaftesbury Avenue, which opened this week. So that kimchi bacon paella, or maybe those generously-filled steamed rolls with super-hot chicken or the bulgogi beef, can be enjoyed as a calm little breather from the frenzy of the surrounding area. And this site exclusively serves such fillings in new Korean-style wraps, along with rice and kimchi and veg, and extra options including guacamole.
The other news is that On The Bab will be opening up in Paris, too. So get to know it now, before things turn global. It’ll be on Rue Thérèse in the 1st arrondissement in May and, from there, who knows?
9a Archer Street, London, W1D 7AX; onthebab.com
Rhubarb Crumble @ Arket Cafés
If you missed the spring equinox this week, then seek a taste of the new season at none other than the Arket cafés, located within the stores of this Swedish fashion brand, which is part of the H&M group. They are smart, hidden eateries serving Nordic-inspired food made with produce local to the country each is in. Everything is plant-based and has a focus on ethical and sustainable practices but, most importantly, that translates into fresh, inventive and delicious plates of food (or boxes of it to take away).
Created by the group’s chef, Martin Berg, the new menu launched on Thursday and features seasonal ingredients tossed into bounteous salads, vibrant cold soups and even a sneaky crumble (the topping is made with their cookie dough, a perfect sweetener to the tart rhubarb underneath). And if you haven’t got time for lunch then, for goodness sake, do yourself a favour and pick up one of the Sticky Love Buns, which are fast gaining notoriety: mammoth cinnamon buns are covered in a salted caramel sauce and scattered with crushed roasted almonds; sweet and gooey with a bit of bite, they basically constitute a whole meal in themselves. Enjoy alongside a first-rate coffee.
27-29 Long Acre, London, WC2H 9JG; arket.com
Whisky & Cheese @ 1 Lombard Street
And if you’re the sort of person who likes to compensate for miserable Mondays, then you might fancy the whisky masterclass happening on this coming one: producers Compass Box will be leading a blending session at the City’s 1 Lombard Street restaurant, teaching you just how to create your own perfect blend. Obviously, they’ll greet you with a drink first. And some canapés. And then soak up the session with cheese and charcuterie. And at the end of it all, a winner will be picked, receiving a miniature bottle of their new creation and a tour of Compass's Chiswick blending house. Best of luck.
25 March
1 Lombard Street, London, EC3V 9AA; 1lombardstreet.com
Tickets cost £25. To book, call 0203 815 2666
*Gloria words by Olivia Ovenden
