Tuna Niçoise @ Moncks
Mayfair has a new brasserie, opened by the team behind Park Chinois, which (for those not already acquainted) is that decadent, Thirties-style Chinese restaurant on Berkley Street. So minimalism is not the vibe at Moncks but, luckily, it’s not too maximalist for a lunchtime assignation either, whilst splendidly enough decorated to feel far homelier than many of today’s shiny venues; ruched fabric adorns the upper walls and jaunty artwork sits below. It is named after Christopher Monck, the second – and last – Duke of Albermarle, who owned the fabled Clarendon House and estate, a stately pile that once stood where Dover and Albermarle Streets now are.
History lesson over, walk through the bar and booth areas to a light conservatory, where you will find food to suit whoever your lunch date is – colleague, client or friend. Starters can be light and bright, like the tuna carpaccio with black sesame or even the scallop gratin, which may feature breadcrumbs but with such zingy accents of lemon and parmesan (and a distinct lack of cream) as to still be refreshing; or heavier and fried into golden goodness – think crispy calamari and dinky Scotch quail eggs with coronation sauce. Mains follow suit: you can stick to a salad (the Nićoise comes with pleasing hulks of pink tuna steak) or a tidy steak tartare, or go down the burger route. Hell, just give in and go for the mac ‘n’ cheese, where extra-large, stumpy pasta tubes are arranged in a honeycomb formation to allow the molten ooziness to bubble away with glee. Oh and there’s truffle on top. Obvs. Tasty stuff from a smart but breezy Mayfair addition.
33 Dover Street, London, W1S 4NF; moncksbrasserie.com
Isle of White Tomatoes @ The Dining Room, The Ned
One of the major perks of being a member of or guest at The Ned has always been its subterranean vaults, which you can spot in Goldfinger and these days house an exclusive bar. But now you have another reason to sidle up to those friends clever enough to have bagged a membership, with the opening of The Dining Room, a cosy yet sultry restaurant next door. Hidden away underground, you could easily forget about the rest of the world in this carpeted, hazily-lit den, which offers the finest of the dining options among The Ned’s plentiful establishments (there are nine on the ground floor alone).
Chef Matteo Nardin (formally of the original Frenchie, in Paris) has created a concise menu full of knockout British ingredients and, if you turn your menu over, you’ll find much longer prose introducing his producers than the dishes themselves – a noble ratio. The Isle of White tomato salad starter is what all summer food should be – fresh, flavourful and tangy on the tongue. It is served with creamy stracciatella, pickled onions and green almonds just to balance it all out. Then you mustn’t miss out on the Launceston lamb, served with an utterly delicious confit carrot (yes, it is possible to get excited about carrots!) and a lively paprika aioli. Every pudding’s description will make you go weak at the knees, which is when the comprehensive wine list will come to the rescue. Exquisite and ridiculously romantic.
27 Poultry, London, EC2R 8AJ; thened.com
Dexter Beef Sirloin @ Darby’s*
Donald Trump threw a colossal hissy fit when he found out that the U.S. Embassy would be relocating to Nine Elms in Battersea last year. Given his well-documented love of overcooked steak, he’d probably be equally as unimpressed with Darby’s, the new Irish-American grill that now sits in the big glass building’s shadow.
Not that chef Robin Gill will be too worried about that. The celebrated Sorella and Counter Culture restauranteur opened the grill, which also hosts an oyster bar and bakery, with the intention of making the most out of British and Irish meat by sourcing directly from farms. Walk up the stairs directly by the entrance, and you’ll see a glass walled butchery where animals are aged onsite.
Just as much care and expertise goes into the cooking. The Highland short rib, paired with pickles and mustard, is beautifully tender, faintly tangy and rich. The Dexter beef sirloin arrived perfectly cooked and laced with delicious melting fat – a true hallmark of a properly reared animal. Even the bread, as should be expected from a bakery, is worth the visit alone.
Elsewhere, there’s an impressive oyster selection, flavourful small plates, and a classic cocktail menu that threatens to turn the moated stone walkway outside into a Total Wipeout-style obstacle course.
3 Viaduct Gardens, Nine Elms, London SW11 7AY, embassygardens.com
Chilli Pepper Squid @ Robata
Robata is a proper Soho restaurant: a darkened little dining room where your elbows knock into your neighbours’ in a manner that might become grating were you not eagerly craning your neck to see which delicious plates will be making their way to your table next. This is by no means a fussy place (though the interiors are neatly done) and the prospect of a plethora of finickity sharing plates can cause nerves these days, but it needn’t do here. With robata-style flame-grilled meats, fish and veg at its core – either skewered or not – you get a selection modern Japanese cuisine including sushi, bao buns and ceviches to choose from. It’s all to be shared, all arrives at the table in its own fine time and, whilst there are flashes of flair across the menu, nothing is overcomplicated. Each dish has its own flavour and personality, making for a delightful pick ‘n’ mix affair.
The grill – visible at the back – is operated with exactitude, gently blackening its prey on the outside whilst retaining tender, flavoursome centres that make you genuinely excited to be eating, say, broccoli, let alone the rather wonderful smoked and hay-flamed beef fillet. In preparation, kick off with one bowl of edamame spiked with gochugaru chilli flakes (warming and moreish) and another of crispy fried squid (sprinkled with pepper, chilli and saffron, served with yuzu and a cooling yet zesty coriander dip). You could spend a happy few visits working your way through the sushi rolls and skewers (but make a beeline for pork belly and scallops) and, with so much going on, won’t even need rice on the side. No fuss – just lots of taste.
56 Old Compton Street, London W1D 4UE; robata.co.uk
Lobster & Chips @ Wright Brothers
It’s the height of British lobster season and seafood specialists Wright Brothers are celebrating throughout August by offering a whole lobster for just £20 every week day. It comes doused in garlic butter and served with chips and salad, and is available at all of their sites between 12-5pm, Monday to Friday, until 31st.
The lobsters themselves are caught off the Cornwall and Devon coast, and will go nicely alongside a crisp glass of white. Or, since it’s Friday, we’d suggest starting with a Bloody Mary – not just for the rosemary-infused vodka or the biting chilli mixed in, but the oyster chilling out in the top of the glass for an extra salty hit. Go, go, go.
Various locations; thewrightbrothers.co.uk
Pistachio Lamb Chops @ The Mantl**
This is the new one from Serdar Demir, whose Skewd Kitchen in Barnet won the British Kebab Awards gong for Best Fine Dining at this year’s ceremony, and trades in the same highly refined takes on Turkish charcoal grill classics.
Inside it’s deceptively big, with room for 74 covers, and a look that pulls together leather, bronze and dark wood. If that sounds a bit heavy, the food’s all treated with an incredibly light touch. Start with the feraye, little balls of crisped lamb and beef in a smoky tomato sauce with mint butter, or the chargrilled octopus with mung beans and kapia peppers. Even better is the house salad, with barberries, cranberries, crushed walnuts, pomegranate molasses and caramelised plums.
As intensely alluring as a stack of charcoal-fired meat is – and the mixed platter of lamb, chicken, an adana kebab – the pick of the mains ties together English produce, French technique and Turkish flavour. Get the pistachio-encrusted lamb chops served on the bone with shallot pomme purée and asparagus, add some Turkish wine in the Kyra Chardonnay from the Denizli region, and you’re there.
142 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge SW3 1HY themantl.com
Book Ahead: The Big Feastival
Forget Glasto, we’re into foodie festival season now. And if you’ve yet to make any Bank Holiday plans, then book tickets to The Big Feastival. Held on Alex James’ Cotswolds farm, there is music, of course, plus a hoard of chefs and food and drink producers (including a two-floored Cheese Hub hosted by Mr James himself).
Raymond Blanc, Gennaro Contaldo and Mark Hix are among those talking and demonstrating, and there will be absolutely loads of street food stalls, every one worthy of a pit stop (Le Bab, Smokestak, Made of Dough and Anna Mae’s in particular). But the hot ticket is to the Friday Night Supper – banqueting tables are arranged outside for a veritable feast produced as a team effort by four chefs. This year, those are London’s current golden boy James Lowe, of Lyle’s and Flor, who’s doing the ‘grazing’ section, Robin Gill of The Dairy and aforementioned Darby’s on starters, Anna Haugh of Myrtle rustling up the main (lamb shoulder with barbecue cabbage, ricotta and olive oil, merguez sausage and sour fennel) and, finally, Ottolenghi’s pastry chef, Helen Goh making an aromatic pavlova for pudding. Tickets are £85 and money goes to Action Against Hunger.
23rd – 25th August; thebigfeastival.com
*Darby's words by Nick Pope
*The Mantl words by Tom Nicholson
