Joosh Pareh @ Nutshell
If you’re not sure what you fancy for dinner, head to Nutshell, because we guarantee that this brand new modern Iranian will suit most any taste buds. The head chef hails from The Palomar – that feted Soho institution that nobody can get enough of – and it is run by couple Marwa Alkhalaf and Mohammad Paknejad, who want to bring a genuine flavour of Tehran to London. Situated at the lower end of St Martin’s Lane, near Trafalgar Square, this restaurant buzzes from the inside out, so book yourself a table sharpish, before everybody else beats you to it.
Kick off with the bazaar bread, which is by no means your average: a long, thin flatbread that feels like a crispy cross between a naan and a pretzel. It will disappear very quickly but try to remember to mop up some salty tapenade if you can. Or the head straight into the mezze and get the mast-o khiar (a beautiful plate of yoghurt sprinkled with pistachio and rose) that begs for some obliging carb alongside. The brik sambusach are turmeric samosas filled with sweet potato that will rectify any long day, served with tomato relish, and all of the main dishes are bursting with spice and fruit and warmth and loveliness; in particular, you need to experience the josh pareh – little oxtail dumplings (like ravioli) in a rich, oily broth with sour cherry and chickpeas. Go, eat, and you’ll feel entirely heart-warmed.
30 St Martin’s Lane, London, WC2N 4ER; nutshelllondon.co.uk
Iberico Pork @ Isla
If it wasn’t so damn cool, we would be calling The Standard one of London’s hottest openings of the year. The first UK hotel from the boutique American chain of the same name is now open in King’s Cross and it boasts two eateries on the ground floor, with a rooftop establishment in the offing (stay tuned on that one). Double Standard is what they call a pub, but it is rather shinier than the neighbouring boozers and, alongside a load of craft beers, serves some excellent hot dog sliders and an already Insta-famous burger.
Next door is Isla, a slightly more formal restaurant, though the entire floor has a relaxed, dare we even say groovy kind of atmosphere that instantly puts you at ease. Think dim lighting and a Seventies colourway, with books ready to read and plenty of tables to work or sit with coffee at during the day. The restaurant’s tables spill out onto the terrace, and you can dine on chef Adam Rawson’s food from breakfast through to dinner, when you will want to make a beeline for the Iberico pork, which is wantonly charred on the outside and served with chimichurri sauce and pickled daikon. Find Esquire’s full report on The Standard in our new September/October issue, out now.
10 Argyle Street, London, WC1H 8EG; islalondon.com
Croque Monsieur @ Hide
Brunch can, usually, be one of two things: a perfunctory splodge of avocado on toast, or an entire afternoon’s worth of decadence – all rules disregarded. The latter is infinitely more enjoyable, and a far better use of one’s precious weekend time. But somehow, a certain Mr Dabbous has included the ubiquitous avocado on toast on his new brunch menu at Michelin-starred Hide, in Mayfair, amid an undeniably glorious selection of brunching fare.
The set menu is £48 per person, which is steep but a worthy treat option since you are brought course after course of pristine yet delectable dishes, kicked off with a Bellini. The shared appetisers include bulbous green olives marinated in rosemary, vibrantly fresh radishes with the poshest taramasalata you’ve ever encountered, Porthilly oysters, flatbread with beetroot hummus, and tempura aubergine. And it’s only then that you embark on starters, like burrata and tomato with an astoundingly tomatoey sheer broth and herb oil, and a croque monsieur that is properly crispy and gooey, and comes with the option of shaved black truffle on top. This could all be a bit much if the portion sizes were not so well crafted, and you are left satisfied but looking forward to the main course; those options include the wholly comforting roast chicken or a barbecued 50 day-aged beef short rib that you’d feel sad to miss (especially given the gossamer onion rings and hulk of potato cake on the side). There’s pudding too. What could be a better use of your weekend?
85 Piccadilly, London, W1J 7NB; hide.co.uk
Beef Tartare Cannelloni @ 5 Social
Jason Atherton has refurbished, renamed and generally re-jigged his pocket-sized restaurant opposite his Michelin-starred Pollen Street Social. Formerly known as Little Social, 5 Social remains as inviting and homely as ever, but gone are the red leather banquettes and harsher French bistro touches, replaced by calming pistachio-coloured walls, wicker hanging lamps and modern oak panelling. With the terrace outside, it is a veritable haven in one of London’s more frenetic areas, just off Regent Street. The food is quintessentially Atherton in style but lighter – and more British – than previously, with executive chef Kostas Papathanasiou splattering the menu with gorgeous British produce like Cumbrian pork terrine, Hebridean halibut, Isle of Wight tomatoes, Orkney scallops and Cornish crab and cod.
From the Lake District comes the beef tartare starter, the meat encased in a tube of cannelloni pasta with caramelised onion jam and a foie gras sauce. It’s one of those dishes full of delicious-sounding things that could so easily end up as too much – too rich and overpowering – but not a bit of that here: it is light as a feather, with each flavour peeking clearly through. Finish with some Richmond Park honey, drizzled over meringue, milk ice cream and an oat crumble for a summery plate of sweetness. A great place for family dining, this also remains a brilliant place to bag a lunchtime bargain, with a prix fixe menu of three courses for under £25.
5 Pollen Street, London, W1S 1NE; 5social.co.uk
The Burger Day Banger @ Patty & Bun
And what help would we be if we didn’t remind you with a big old claxon tomorrow is National Burger Day? It’s a cause almost absurdly close to our hearts and one bargain that we feel honour-bound to inform you of is the £7 special on offer at all Patty & Bun sites for this special day only. The Burger Day Banger consists of two beef patties, with aged beef fat mayo and double smoked cheddar, in a brioche bun. Grab one while you can and you will end up gurgling with delight.
Thursday 22ndAugust
Various locations; pattyandbun.co.uk/
