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This special ‘closed’ edition of Rado’s ceramic True Square timepiece comes from a collab between the luxury Swiss label and Formafantasma, a design studio based between The Netherlands and Italy, founded by Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin). Needless to say, it’s for the quirky watch collectors, but it’s also for the minimalists – sans markers, the model becomes a clean, simple timepiece that pairs well with your quiet luxury-wear.
A bit The Matrix, a bit Blade Runner, Hamilton’s American Classic PSR Green is the space-age watch you didn’t know you needed. The model first emerged in the seventies and was re-introduced in 2020 for today's forward-thinking folk looking for a digital watch that genuinely arouses awe.
The American-born Swiss watch manufacturer also produces one that displays the time in a laser red hue, rather than the green you see here, a take that's a little more spy thriller than dystopian science fiction.
Geneva-based Raymond Weil is behind this delightful 40mm wristwatch characterised by its cushion-shaped case, visible balance wheel and timeless khaki green paint job. It’s called the Freelancer, which makes sense since it’s versatile, resilient and works really hard to make your life a little easier.
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Lots to take in here, most of it circular. But look beyond the many, many concentric rings – all functional mind you, with a tachymeter, pulsometer and asthmometer – and there's the classic Bell & Ross square case behind it. Sturdy, vibrant and understated at the same time.
This particular design came about when British army officers started grousing about how easy it was to damage their wristwatches while playing polo. So, Jacques-David LeCoultre worked out an ingenious system to allow the polo players to flip their watch faces around to protect them through each chukka. Smart stuff.
When it comes to square watches, Cartier is the first name that comes to mind. The Santos-Dumont – named after the Brazilian aviator who favoured the distinctive shape – is still one of the most famous square models and it’s easy to see why. This example combines a yellow gold case with a sleek black alligator strap for a classic look, while the blue sapphire crown is a tasteful extra.
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7Cartier
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Or, of course, there's Cartier's iconic Tank. It's a 1917 design inspired by the Renault war machines of the Western Front, and boasts over 100 years of influence in the high end market.
£3,700; goldsmiths.co.uk
8Tag Heuer
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As, arguably, patient zero of the whole square watch quake, Tag Heuer's Monaco has quite the CV: a visible in-house Calibre Heuer 11 movement, a striking blue-red palette and a starring role on the wrist of Steve McQueen in Le Mans (1970).
£6,500; goldsmiths.co.uk
D1 Milano was only established a decade ago, but the label is known for its classic designs and more-than-reasonable price point. This one is no different, with a champagne colour used across the case, dial and strap.
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Duckworth Prestex’s Bolton model has fun with the idea of a traditional square watch. The stylised numerals and cushion-style steel case both make a statement, while the brown Horween leather strap and smaller size mean that it can complement almost anything.
11Rotary
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Founded in 1895, Rotary has much experience in the art of watchmaking. And better yet, they do so at a fraction of the cost of its competitors, with the GS05280/01 pulling back on the details to let the square dial speak for itself.
£189; jurawatches.co.uk
12Rotary
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13Gucci
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The watch industry likes a quiet life. It doesn't like disruptions. But that's exactly what it got with the Gucci Grip: a line of avant garde square-shaped pieces that looked a little like a Swiss watch, and yet nothing at all like a normal Swiss watch. The watch industry liked it, too.
£1000; beaverbrooks.co.uk
LA brand La Californienne began life creating hand-painted straps inspired by the colours of the Californian sky. Those origins are clear on the label’s Daybreak watch, which features a colourful strap alongside a gold-plated case, teal dial and pink hands.
15Hermès
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You need good timekeeping for equestrian sports too. And that's exactly what Hermès has offered with the Cape Cod: a square watch that taps into the maison's long and winding history with all things horsey (chiefly the snaffle bit-inspired lugs) in an all-round, wear-all-the-time watch.
£2,720; hermes.com
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16Rado
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If most Swiss watches are to be worn by men at the top of their field/office block, then Rado does exactly the same – just if said men were in the year 2065. Yes, the Ceramica – a square-dialled well-made automatic – melds a wearable design with the manufacturer's signature (and covetable) futurism.
£2,350; berrysjewellers.co.uk
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