The Eighties Called, And They Want Their Suits Back

In 1980, Richard Gere made a splash on screen for two reasons. He played Julian Kaye in American Gigolo, a role that would kick-off the then 31-year-old’s career and become immortalised for his many nude scenes. Secondly, and rather surprisingly considering the aforementioned, was what he was wearing.

Donning louche tailoring, chest-exposing button-downs and head-to-toe linen looks, Gere’s costumes made him a perpetual sartorial star. And we’ve got Giorgio Armani to thank.

Considering how esteemed Giorgio Armani is in the world of tailoring, it’s weird to think that he was still a fledging designer back then. But the costume’s distinctive departure from the bell-bottoms and prints that reigned the seventies heralded in a new menswear look for the decade. It’s what put him on the map, and it seems that forty years on, suits with a little bit of room to move have returned.

We’ve seen them worn by the likes of Paul Mescal, favouring double-breasted blazers with slightly loose shoulders and wide-leg trousers while on the red carpet. Charles Melton favours his slouchy suits in monochrome, while Matt Smith combines the styling details of the previous two. And it’s not just GA you can expect it from, Gucci, Balenciaga and Wales Bonner – to name a few – are all on board.

Of course, the originator of it still makes regular outings on the red carpet, too. Dev Patel wore the designer at the UK special screening of his directorial debut Monkey Man, and Daryl McCormack opted for a black design when presenting at the BAFTAs.

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Dev Patel

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Daryl McCormack

Summer-apropos designs fluttered the runway of the brand’s spring/summer ’24 show, coming in lightweight fabrics and sandy hues. But there’s still plenty of desire for the cuts of yore, as searches for ‘Vintage Armani’ have surged by 95% on eBay, while searches for ‘Armani suit’ on the marketplace have increased by over 105%.

What’s made this silhouette oh so timeless is the inevitable effortlessness it protrudes. Putting on something that is intentionally (very important) a little oversized gives the same energy as that enviable ‘cool’ guy that can get a difficult dinner reservation with ease. In fact, that meal is where he’s wearing it, as well as to his uni friend’s engagement party, or when meeting with his new partner’s parents for the first time. A look that’s put together without being too try-hard is a masterclass in sartorial finesse that heralds from a male escort – now that’s a memorably product description.