The Best Moisturisers for Very Dry Skin

When you’ve got dry skin, the long, cold winter we still don't seem to be actually rid of is likely to make it feel even drier, no matter how enthusiastically you slap on the moisturiser.

Dry skin comes with challenges, but that’s not to say you can't tackle the issue with a few choice grooming moves. Most importantly: a targeted moisturiser for dry skin.

What Actually Qualifies as Dry Skin?

As facialist Katharine Mackenzie Paterson explains, dry skin is caused by a lack of sebum production. “When this lack of sebum in the epidermis (the outermost layer of skin) occurs, the level of lipids decreases – and lipids are essential for keeping moisture and oil in the skin, ensuring a healthy and balanced barrier,” she says.

“Dry skin can feel uncomfortable and look quite dull, due to a build up of old cells, and you may often see flaking skin, either in certain areas of the face (and body) or all over,” she adds, also flagging a predisposition to eczema and dermatitis.

Dry, or Dehydrated?

Obviously, tackling skin concerns requires a certain amount of strategy, so you need to know exactly what you're dealing with before diving into the first face cream you see. Dryness is often confused with dehydration: however (and yes, we’re getting granular now) dehydration is actually a separate skin thing. “I would say this is one of the most common misunderstandings with people trying to understand their skin, says Mackenzie Paterson, who sees many clients that “initially think their skin is dry, when in fact it’s dehydrated.”

“Most simply explained, dry skin is a lack of oil in the skin, whereas dehydration refers to a lack of water,” says Mackenzie Paterson. “More specifically, in drier skin, there tends to be a lack of epidermal lipids, which are comprised of fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterols. Dehydration in skin tends to be caused by Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL).”

So, why does this matter? Essentially, determining what category your complexion falls in will help steer you towards the moisturiser that will fix it. The simplest way to work out which club you belong to is to have a really good look at your face. “Dehydrated skin can still have that tight feeling, but you will tend to see more superficial, feathery dehydration lines on the skin surface, rather than flaking skin,” explains Mackenzie Paterson.

Dry skin will look and feel, well, dry: think, rough sandpapery texture and a visible lack of radiance. As dry skin is a skin type, rather than a fleeting condition, you can’t ‘get rid’ of it for good. However, the right moisturiser – one that’s specifically tailored to target dryness – will bring things back into balance.

Finding the Best Moisturiser for Dry Skin

There are a lot of moisturisers out there, and they are not all created equal. Nor are they all created with dry skin in mind. As Mackenzie Paterson explains, there are some specific ingredients that may help identify the ones specifically suited to your desert-dry face.

“Your holy trinity are going to be humectants, emollients, and occlusives, all working in synergy with each other,” she says. “Humectants help to hold moisture in the skin: examples of these are hyaluronic acid and glycerin. Emollients act as ’skin softeners’ by filling the gaps between cells with lipids, calming any tightness or itching – look for ceramides and coconut oil. And occlusives, like shea butter and lanolin, provide a barrier or ‘film’ over the skin, preventing trans-epidermal water loss.”

What Not to Do to Dry Skin

Your new multitasking moisturiser (more on that below) will help soothe a dry face well, but there are also a few things you can do to help it on its way. If your skin is only mildly dry and tight, try using a good exfoliator (like Dr. Dennis Gross' cult-status wipes) to slough away those dead skin cells. Just be warned of applying ‘active’ products to skin that has crossed over into ‘actually quite sore’ territory, or you risk making the irritation worse. A calming and hydrating face serum is always a wise move though.

Steering clear of steam rooms and saunas, as well as scalding-hot showers (sorry) is also a good move, as extreme heat can make a dry face even drier.

Don’t ignore your cleanser, either. Put that bar of soap back where it belongs and treat your special facial skin to something gentle and hydrating - Mackenzie Paterson likes this utilitarian yet effective bottle from Cerave (as do we).

The Best Moisturisers for Dry Skin

Here, see the expert-approved moisturisers that'll sort out dryness quickly.