Wine for the weekend - Comte Leloup de Chasseloir, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie 2005

“Mmmmm… yeasty”: nope, it just doesn’t sound right. Nothing about yeast sounds deliciously appealing except if it’s in bread. Or, in fact, muscadet.

This (oft-overlooked) white, produced in the Loire valley, is matured sur lie, which means it is left on the dead yeast cells after fermentation. (This causes a process called autolysis – if you’re interested http://tiny.cc/LJp0A - giving the wine a more complex, creamy flavour and allowing it to age.)

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Anyway, muscadet is — generally speaking — bone dry, crisp, refreshing, and a superb match with shellfish. This Comte Leloup is a particularly good example. There’s definitely a characteristic “minerality”/chalkiness to it, alongside lush citrus flavours. It’s brilliant value for a remarkable wine – and, if we weren’t drinking it chilled, alongside a plate of oysters later, it would keep for a good few years to come.

Wine guru Robert Parker says of it: “I cannot imagine what any readers who have not already had the experience are waiting for” — we can’t help but agree.

£7.95 from Vineyards Direct (www.fromvineyardsdirect.com)