Multi Grammy-winning musician John Mayer’s relationship with watches goes far deeper than your average celeb horologist. He’s been a collector of watches since 2001 (very early in his musical career) and his passion for and critically deep understanding of high-end watches has paralleled his musical success ever since. It's also made him something of an oracle for collectors. For much of his collecting life, Audemars Piguet has been a firm favourite.
In Milan last week, Audemars Piguet unveiled with Mayer a collaboration two years in the making: the white gold Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer, limited to 200 pieces. The insider gossip about this impending Mayer launch ahead of the event did nothing to stem the excitement for the new watch when it was unveiled. Instantly eye-catching, it was given a decidedly modern vibe with a dial described as "crystal sky" for its granular blue surface, created by electro-forming the 3D surface one atom at a time, then individually polishing each of the hundreds of facets before applying a deep blue PVD coating. The result is a mesmerising light show whichever way you look at it, over which the all-important sub-dials float with ease. For a watch as complicated as a perpetual calendar—regarded as the pinnacle of high watchmaking—it's surprisingly legible.
According to company lore, this special edition was born when Mayer approached then CEO François-Henry Bennahmias with an idea for a one-off watch for himself. Bennahmias liked it so much he countered with the idea of making it a limited edition instead. Given that the movement that drives this grand complication is going into retirement, it’s a fitting and collectable send-off. The movement in question is the 5134, a self-winding, ultra-thin movement launched in 2016 but based on a legendary movement—the 2120—created in the mid 1960s.
Alongside the release of the watch came the announcement of Mayer taking on the role of Creative Conduit for the brand. Somewhere between a brand ambassador and a collector, Mayer will function as a bridge between the house and its most passionate collectors.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 'John Mayer'
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 'John Mayer'
AP also timed the Milan launch of the Perpetual Calendar John Mayer to unveil the new AP Social Club, a luxury space for fans and customers of Audemars Piguet to meet away from the house’s stores. Naturally enough, the latest—the 20th to open around the world, and just a stone's throw from the storied via Montenaploeone and its fashion and watch flagships—is the best yet. Spread over multiple floors in a repurposed multistory garage the Garage Traversi built in 1938, the space features dining rooms, lounges, and meeting spaces. There’s a bar or two and a grand piano. Roof terraces wrap around the sinuous deco-style building, overlooking the rooftops of the San Babila district. One hidden dining room was designed with wall-mounted display cabinets for collectors to show off their collections over dinner. No doubt the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer will make a showing at such gatherings.
As true horology nerds know, provided you keep it wound, this watch will tell the correct time, month, week, date, day, the leap year, and even the current phase of the moon, without adjustment, until March 1, 2100, when the Gregorian calendar is obliged to skip a leap year. It’s a Monday, by the way.
Nick Sullivan is Creative Director at Equire, where he served as Fashion Director from 2004 until 2019. Prior to that, he relocated from London with his young family to Boerum Hill, Brooklyn. He has styled and art directed countless fashion and cover stories for both Esquire and Big Black Book (which he helped found in 2006) in exotic,uncomfortable, and occasionally unfeasibly cold locations. He also writes extensively about men’s style, accessories, and watches. He describes his style as elegantly disheveled.
