London Collections: Men

The Editors' Pick Part Three

The sartorial highlights of London Collections: Men's third and final day .

Oversized prints at E. Tautz (above)

Patrick Grant, jefe at Savile row tailoring brand E.Tautz, is not one to mess around with man skirts and frilly boots. Providing proper clothes for proper men, Grant’s AW’13  offering was confident, occasionally tongue-in-cheek, beautifully made and, above all, wearable. The palate was grey with hints of burnt orange, claret and indigo, the cuts were either super sharp or billowing with a hint of eighties tycoon, and the prints veered between blocky graphics and twee florals. Key pieces for next season include cigarette flannel trousers in shades of soft plum printed with a seventies wallpaper motif and a grey single breasted great coat finished with a single, oversized prince of wales check. Oh and the woollen baseball caps-meet-fisherman hats are a thing of genius: particularly good for baldies.

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Biker meets banker at Hardy Amies

Formerly of E.Tautz, Hardy Amies’ head designer Clare Malcolm has breathed new life into the Savile Row stalwart over the past few seasons. Her contemporary vision for the brand maintains a staunch respect for Amies’ traditional values, and consistently results in fresh-feeling collections. This sensitive approach to her craft was evident in Malcolm’s AW13 offering. Comprised of a range of single and double breasted suits and a selection of three pieces, Malcolm played with understated patterns and prints (enlarged checks, Bauhaus checks, oversized houndstooths) leaving the cut of her cloth to do the talking. The addition of biker boots and patchwork woolen outerwear added a vaguely military air.

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Tom Ford's new luxury

The big man's in town and with him rail upon rail of surprisingly masculine fox fur coats, nappa leather puffa jackets, broad shouldered cashmere suits and plenty of Prince of Wales check - on everything from blazers to great coats. All the usual suspects are present (some art deco tapestry slippers being a particular highlight) but the stand out item was a pair of enormous fox fur mittens. Not ideal for tapping away at your iPhone, but they're just the ticket for the slopes of Santa Fe, where Mr Ford was recently ski-ing, natch.

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