London Collections: Men

The Editors’ Pick Part Two

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Esquire’s round-up of the highlights of the second day of LC:M.

DAY TWO

richard-james

5 Tone on tone knitwear at Richard James

Autumnal shades were order of the day at Richard James. The Savile Row mainstay showed in the recently refurbished Cafe Royale members’ club on Regent Street, and the setting made for an impressive backdrop to James' AW'13 collection. From giant teddy bear shearling coats, to elegant single breasted evening suits in bottle greens and midnight blues, to big fluffy jumpers in autumnal shades (which came cleverly accompanied by scarves, gloves, bobble hats and in some case trousers in the same tone), James' crown is in no risk of slipping.

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6 The return of the beard* at Rake

Clive Derby and Will Adams of Rake built on several successful seasons with an accomplished, cleverly layered AW13 collection. The key look involved teaming a tightly tailored flannel trouser in orange or teal with a more muted (yet impeccably cut) double-breasted jacket. Slippers could be found on the majority of feet. The highlight was an impeccably soft suede and shearling bomber in a dusty shade of mink. Given that the 'real men' models looked like they'd been cast from the base camp of Everest, next season a beard is your essential accessory. Again.

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*Yes, fine, this model isn't wearing a beard.

oliver-spencer

7 The winter loafer at Oliver Spencer

Best known for his line in softly tailored workwear in shades of mustard yellow, royal blue and brick red, Oliver Spencer didn't venture too far from home territory for his AW13 collection, and it was better for it.  Loosely cut hunting jackets in plums and greys were particularly strong while Spencer's footwear, as ever, was a key talking point. Invest in a pair of his thick-soled forest green tassel loafers for next winter and if, like the designer's beardy models, you're brave enough to go sockless, you'll reap the benefits.

jonathan-saunders

8 A lesson in wearing colour at Jonathan Saunders

The buzz name in contemporary British menswear, Scottish designer Jonathan
Saunders presented his third men's collection yesterday. Acid toned jumpers sat alongside tailored jackets in icy blues and mint greens, while Saunders' patchwork patterned wool overcoats in muted shades and sharply tailored suits in olive greens and burnt toffee browns made this his most wearable collection to date.

mcqueen

9 McQueen comes home

Sarah Burton chose to show Alexander McQueen's AW13 collection in east London's Farmiloe building, a suitable backdrop for a collection with its roots as deeply entrenched in the city as the brand itself. From military inspired tailored jackets, built up with McQueen's classic pagoda shouldering and adorned with intricate stained glass prints, to the sinister flashes of Cold Stream Guards red against a sea of monochrome tailoring, to the Jack the Ripper-esque greatcoats that swept around the rather dingy runway, this was a confident collection with its home city firmly in mind.

Words by Teo van den Broeke

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