Fur, frills and fine tailoring - the flavour of London Fashion Week's Menswear Day thus far. The Esquire fashion team are currently out in force at the shows, scouting the best new collections from London's menswear talents. So far this morning we've seen JW Anderson, Christopher Shannon and Topman Design, each of which have set an exciting standard for this afternoon's offerings.
Impressive. Remeniscent of Zegna's AW'11 collection shown last month in Milan, Topman's closely-cut, double-breasted suits (pictured above) in tweed and wool were well made and, frankly, expensive looking. Great coats with oversized collars were strong, as was use of pattern - paisley in particular (are you spotting a trend?)n Use of faux fur in straggly scarves and collars was perhaps ill-advised, but in general a strong, masculine collection, with a distinct late 60s flavour.
Despite the slightly fussy styling (fine knits wrapped artlessly around waists does not a good look make) pieces were strong at JW, the leather jackets and delicately patterned knits, worn in the usual fashion, particularly so. The floor-length pleated skirts are unlikely to catch on, but Anderson's horse hair-tassled chunky lace-ups, paisley patterened suits and clever use of layering worked very well indeed.
The backpacks for which Shannon is perhaps best known came littered throughout, but a few standout pieces stole the show, including a pair of tapered, qulited trousers, and peruvian-inspired, brightly coloured knits (pictured below). High-shine synthetic fabrics were used to interesting effect, with roccoco frills added to almost everything. Interesting, however, is not the same as wearable, which we fear a few of Shannon's creations are not.
Words by Teo van den Broeke