St Crépin by John Lobb
The 25th of October is the feast of St Crispin and while it’s probably best known for being the day in 1415 that Henry V gave his “band of brothers” speech before the battle of Agincourt it’s also a big day for shoemakers – St Crispin is their patron saint.
To celebrate, John Lobb has created the St Crépin 2010, which is an elegant contemporary wholecut double monkstrap. From these shoes you might deduce that -
a John Lobb is run by the French.
b The French have got over their ignominous defeat at Agincourt.
c John Lobb designs a pair of shoes to celebrate St Crispin’s day every year.
NB the modern buckles, which are the most obvious indicator that the shoes were designed by Philippe Mouquet of Hèrmes.
Brummell by Edward Green
At this point it’s worth re-iterating that there are, unbelievably confusingly, two companies called John Lobb that make shoes and have shops in London’s St James’s. One is a British brand (www.johnlobbltd.co.uk) that only makes very English bespoke shoes - Prince Charles is a customer. The other is a French brand (www.johnlobb.com) owned by Hèrmes that sells exquisitely made ready-to-wear shoes, which are made in Northampton – although in Paris it also offers a bespoke service. Is that clear? Thought not.
Less confusingly Edward Green, one of a handful of shoe brands with a quality to rival John Lobb, also has a new style, the Brummell, which was launched to celebrate the company’s 120th birthday. The Brummell, named after the famous Georgian dandy, is a lightly-updated version of a shoe from the Twenties and is one of the most elegant full brogues we’ve ever seen.
St Crépin by John Lobb, £980, www.johnlobb.com
Brummell by Edward Green, £670, www.edwardgreen.com
Words by Mansel Fletcher