The show notes described a strong preppy influence on the Jsen Wintle’s collection, which was hard to square with his usual angular aesthetic, but as the show opened with odd (as in non-matching) jackets paired with trousers the collegiate influence was clear. This was preppy style expressed in a sophisticated way with long boxy jackets, rather than the usual brightly coloured polo shirts.
However, the hip-hugging slacks, which puddled around the ankles, were less successful than the jackets. Wintle’s use of colour, in the form of green suits, fawn double-breasted jackets and cream blazers, was adept and he made the shapes his own with unfamiliar lapel shapes, blazers cut as short as mess jackets and futuristic slash pockets cut along horizontal seams. Jsen truly took us back to the future.