London Collections: Men SS14 - Day One Report

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Sunday was a packed day at London Collections: Men but Esquire's fashion team was there to keep a close eye on all that went down. Here are their day one picks:

Lou Dalton
The workwear trend was taken literally at Lou Dalton, with slim-cut, ultra-creased boiler suits and stained doctors' jackets sent down the runway alongside boxy jacquard silk jackets complete with fifties-esque wide spread collars.

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The highlight? A light dove grey overcoat in Dalton’s signature creased cotton.

Topman championed the space cowboy for their SS ’14 show. Silky embroidered bomber jackets and rodeo shirts were pared with chunky, steel-toed and be-tassled brogues, drapey fluidly-tailored trousers and satin turtleneck T-shirts.

Jonathan Saunders
Jonathan Saunders is renowned for his innovative use of colour and his SS’14 offering presented no contradiction. Saunders used geometric patterns, fade out washes and dazzling shades to impressive effect.

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Highlights included beautifully cut, graphic print bombers, belted trench coats in muted shades and dazzling, super-textured knits.

Mr Hare & Mr Start
Our two favourite misters of fashion joined forces for a SS ’14 presentation at Soho’s The House of St Barnabas. The pairing of Mr Hare’s intuitive approach to footwear (you literally want to wear the entire collection at once) with Mr Start’s understated, fabric focused tailoring was inspired.

Highlights included Marc Hare’s midnight blue double monkstrap shoe and his bold array of butter soft suede slippers. Mr Start’s slim fit pique polo shirts and elegant hopsack jackets were pretty good too.

Gieves & Hawkes
Jason Basmajian is on to something. The recently installed creative director at age old Savile Row brand Gieves & Hawkes has run with the brand's impressive tailoring prowess, embraced its Brittishness but also added a dose of contemporary continental cool.

Belted safari jackets, perfectly cut grandad collar shirts and slim cut macs in bright shades sat alongside more classic double breasted tuxes and light woolen day suits.

The key to the collection's success, though? Basmajian's accute attention to the male body shape; but we'd expect nothing less from the Brioni alumnus.
Gieves and

Agi & Sam
An artfully layered offering from young Brit duo Agi and Sam. The pebbledashed cropped suiting was strong, while soft-shouldered, panneled overcoats in soft shades of mint, teal and orange in fabrics such as crepe and nylon were texturally interesting.

It was the clever, layered up styling, however, that gave the pair that extra edge. Sporty, elegant and infinately wearable, this was a very impressive spring summer collection indeed - and it's worth remembering that it's a notoriously difficult season to get right.
Agi and

Spencer Hart
Clever layering, unexpected lapels and unusual shirt and jacket lengths were order of the day at Spencer Hart. Cropped cigarette trousers in cotton and linen came teamed with collarless sleeping shirts and cropped jackets.

The sunglasses were big, the sneakers were box fresh and the attitudes were out in force. If there was one thing we took from the show it was that the traditional shirt collar is officially a thing of the past.

So long as you're wearing a fifties spread, a grandad style or a baseball-esque v-neck, you'll fine.

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