Milan Menswear Fashion Week: The Final Shows

Our pick from final Autumn / Winter collections in Milan

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Our pick of the final two days of Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

Don't miss our highlights from the opening weekend, too.

The story will be updated throughout the day.

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Opening his Emporio line with four models dressed in impeccable tailoring could have been a taste of things to come. Mr Armani had other ideas. As the formality of the suit seems to be slipping away over Milan week, Armani only quantified the argument with his strong tailored separates of double breasted jackets pared with slim ankle cropped trousers, many with contrasting panels. His usual body conscious cuts gave way to a more relaxed fit, particularly in the sporty outwear pieces often fur trim and hooded. The cut of the jackets were shorter. Knitwear precise on the waist. It all made for a clean pared back show that help concentrate on Armani's play with texturised fabrics of volcanic black, steely greys and deep midnight blue. The show finished with a run of classic evening tuxedos, alluding to the fact, that some classic don't need to be changed.

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 - Gareth Scourfield


A chic, British countryside-inspired collection from the master of pattern, Kean Etro. Mustard, sunshine and traffic light yellow check suits with super skinny trousers and tautly constructed shoulders constituted the bulk of the collection, complimented by waistcoats, luggage, overcoats, ties and pocket squares in matching shades and patterns. Knitwear was exclusively roll necked, and trouser shapes were exclusively skin tight. Etro's signature paisely got a look-in between the checks, finding its way onto bags, scarves, ties and a beautiful wool coat in a soft shade of plum.

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 - Teo van den Broeke



A variation on a theme at Gucci. Drawing on the dusty, Monet-esque palette she's been using (very successfully) for the past few seasons, Frida Giannini produced a very wearable collection for AW'14. Slim wool trousers in rusts, powder blues and sage greens came teamed with smooth leather shirts, perfect shearling biker jackets and plush velvet blazers. Texture was key, with plenty of oversized knits and off-the-shoulder double breasted coats, while the overall vibe was modish, with perfectly round sunglasses, black train driver hats and cropped jackets littered throughout.

- Teo van den Broeke


Invited guests were ushered into a series of rooms set up as mini libraries for Moncler Gamme Bleu and were treated to an eccentric offering from Designer Thom Browne. His unique quilted aesthetic was stylistically bold. The graphic diamond pattern of the Argyle check was used throughout. Layered boxy down filled blazers were put over check knitwear. Only crisp white shirts broke up the colourful layered repeat patterns. Browne played a lot with proportions and layering switching from cropped tailored pieces to long floor length coats. His ubiquitous quilted plus fours complete with knee high argyle socks looked more couture than country. The brands red, white & blue colour was used extensively across the padded pieces. The exaggerated silhouette of the outerwear, worn layer upon layer gave the show its drama, that fantasy film maker Tim Burton would be proud of.

- Gareth Scourfield

 

Drawing reference from the Belstaff archive, and redefining pieces with a contemporary relevance, the British heritage brand produced a strong collection. With performance and functionality at the forefront of the pieces, this show was in no way style over substance. Durable riding suits were paired with oversized motorcycle capes and foul weather parkas. Wool patterns referenced from the 1970's were worn under treated leathers and signature waxed cottons. The classic Belstaff 4-pocket jacket took on a new form in the Sportmaster: designed with a modular dropout lining and a reinvention of an archival piece. A hand waxed shearling moto parka was an Esquire highlight. Authentic accessories provided protection from the elements of the open road in the form of waxed cotton and shearling gauntlet gloves and knitted balaclavas.

 – Gareth Scourfield 


Defining itself as the younger, more contemporary version of the house’s Ermengildo label, Z Zegna presented a trend-focused collection. The modish undercurrent that has played out across several Milanese designers set the tone, with slim striped high buttoned up jackets. High cuffed cropped trousers revealed some chunky brogue monk strap shoes with stacked rubber deep tread soles. Geometrics that switched from large candy stripes to blurry mohair tartans cut across natural shouldered jackets, car coats and oversized outwear. Smoky greys, burgundy, bottle green and a shot of mustard hit the autumnal colour trend. A stand out show for all it's pared back simplicity, it hit every trend currently being coveted for next season.

 – Gareth Scourfield

 

In contrast to the more futuristic, fashion forward Emporio show, Giorgio offered a lesson in how to dress down, with style. Soft shouldered three piece suits which looked as though they would feel like a jumper and long johns on, came teamed with tie-free, button down shirts. Layering, as ever, was key with soft grandad shirts, zip up under layers and knitted jackets with upturned collars teamed with suits in thicker fabrics and just-matching tonal shades. Pleated trousers (a big trend for AW'14) came with fluffy angora jumpers, while the blocky, thick-soled lace ups and slippers were paired with just cropped enough tapered pants in heavy wool. Armani has captured the way in which men want to dress now. Easy and soft yet elegant and smart – about as far from the tie bar obsessive Mad Men look as it's possible to get, and all the better for it.

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SEE ALSO:

Milan Menswear Fashion: The Open Weekend
London Collections: Men Day One
London Collections: Men Day Two
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