Milan Menswear Fashion Week S/S '16: The Highlights

Reviews from Ermenegildo Zegna, Dolce and Gabbana and more

Most Popular

Ermenegildo Zegna

 

Drapey brilliance from Stefano Pilati @zegnaofficial #MFW #Zegna

A photo posted by Esquire Magazine (@ukesquire) on

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below


This season's Ermenegildo Zegna Couture show saw creative director Stefano Pilati fall into his stride. Menswear spring summer collections have a tendency to feel a little flat due to a lack of layering and texture, but thanks to Lanificio Zegna's exemplary fabric innovation program the collection looked rich and tactile.

Super-light double faced century cashmeres (a Zegna speciality), incredibly fine silks and cottons and intriguing Japanese fabrics stole the show. The garments themselves were equally beguiling. Boxy five-button jackets, slouchy tapered trousers in silk and oversized madras check overcoats were among the show's stand out pieces; while translucent suits, multi-pocket gilets and drapey bombers looked exactly like the kind of stuff we want to be wearing next summer (and with any luck will be).

Most Popular

– Teo van den Broeke

Dolce and Gabbana

 

The floaty vibe continues at @dolcegabbana. Pyjama-esque printed trousers, drapey silk tops and raffia espadrilles a go go.

A photo posted by Esquire Magazine (@ukesquire) on


Dolce and Gabbana took us to China this weekend. Not literally of course. By way of Sicily – as you would expect – and the Chinese Palace of Palermo. Blood red walls and palm trees hinted at something oriental as first looks marched onto the runway to an almost military soundtrack.  Intricately embroidered double breasted suits were styled louchely over bare skin; distressed denim and oversize, loosely woven T's also got the embroidery treatment with images of the Madonna and child overlaid with heavy gold thread.

But their real strength lay in the printed silks – a homage to the lacquered furniture of the Orient and shown, of course, to convey their mastery of extravagant dressing. Shawl collared jackets, silk blousons, pyjama style shirting, even skimpier shorts depicting peacocks, pagodas, Chinese Dragons and Oriental dignitaries may have seemed obvious choices for the theme of the show but the real successes – and the most wearable – lay in the more mundane choice of patterns: polka dots and citrus fruit. Dolce and Gabbana have weathered some PR storms over the past few months but their dogged determination and dedication to exuberant dressing – plus a growing band of VICS ( very important customers) – should be admired.

– Catherine Hayward

Bottega Veneta

 

Highlights from the Men's SS16 show. Watch the full video at youtube.com/bottegaveneta #BottegaVeneta #mfw

A video posted by Bottega Veneta Official (@bottegaveneta) on


Tomas Maier consistently strikes a perfect balance between high-end tailoring and luxury sportswear. The creative director's spring summer '16 collection for Bottega Veneta was one of the highlights of Milan fashion week thus far. Perfectly capturing the mood of the moment, equally as well as Stefano Pilati did at Ermenegildo Zegna yesterday, fabrics were light and tactile with silks and suedes dominating, while cuts were both flattering and drapey all at once.

Key pieces included striped and block colour silk trouser-come-track pants, perfectly cropped suede bomber jackets and patchwork cupro worker suits, finished with soft blue and white stripes. Rich, broad reaching and full to bursting with interesting ideas - from the leather and nylon sandals teamed with chunky boot socks, to the corduroy-effect suede suits - the collection contained all the usual Maier hallmarks and worked as a brilliantly cohesive whole as a consequence.

– Teo van den Broeke

Salvatore Ferragamo

 

 

Palm Springs-inspired shades and boxy cuts at Salvatore @Ferragamo #MFW #ferragamo

A photo posted by Esquire Magazine (@ukesquire) on

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below


An impeccable cut at Ferragamo. Perfectly tapered trousers in shades of buff, navy, berry and pine needle green came teamed with cropped bomber jackets, light shirts and boxy four buttoned jackets. The effect was neat and chic. Key accessories included caps and chunky leather sandals. The colour palette brought to mind dusk in Palm Springs, indeed many of the geometric patterns and poster-esquire prints which adorned jackets, T-shirts and blousons looked as if they had been taken directly from the signage of Californian motels.

– Teo van den Broeke

Prada

 

Lace shirts, kick flares and remarkable embroidery at new @Gucci #MFW #Gucci

A photo posted by Esquire Magazine (@ukesquire) on

Most Popular


For its latest incarnation, the Prada show space was finished with hanging walls of corrugated plastic shaped into various curves and angles. Though impressive, the setting revealed little about the collection shown within it. Billed as the 'men's and women's spring summer '16 show', the ratio of men's and women's looks sent down the runway was around 50/50.

It was the menswear, however, which stole the show. Though Miuccia Prada is known for ignoring the trends and setting her own agenda, this season she bought fully into the current sportswear movement. Wide legged track style trousers with pops of neon on pockets and waist bands had a seventies vibe, while billowy tracksuit tops – finished with Prada's instantly recognisable fifties style collar – and slouchy leather jackets added to the sporty aesthetic. The sandals which have been so prevalent at Prada in the past few seasons were nowhere to be seen, replaced instead by slip-on leather shoes and Chelsea boots worn with thick tube socks (tube socks are becoming a bit of a thing, believe it or not).

Layering was also key, with the minimalism of last season thrown out in favour of racing car patterned jumpers teamed with long sleeved cotton undershirts and boxy suit jackets worn under mohair overcoats and over zip-up tracksuit tops. Accessories-wise it was all about oversized backpacks and neon pop aviators, which added to the seventies mood.

– Teo van den Broeke


Gucci
 

 

Lace shirts, kick flares and remarkable embroidery at new @Gucci #MFW #Gucci

A photo posted by Esquire Magazine (@ukesquire) on


A new show venue in Milan's industrial northwest signalled the continuation of a very clear and definite change in direction for designer Alessandro Michele at Gucci. His new design regime at the 94 year old design house – christened last season with a heavy sprinkling of androgyny – riffed on the theme of the starving artist once again. Sinister heavy breathing morphed into a soundtrack of beatific choral music as the models – all long hair and jutting hip bones (and that was just the boys) walked along one of the longest and most heavily anticipated catwalks of the season.

The show notes talked of 'decontextualised fragments' and 'compositional principles' taken from the works of Debord and Derrida. Situationist gobbledegook for the fashionable majority maybe, yet any attempts at this deliberate obfuscation disappeared as a collection of quite beautiful clothing wandered past. Feminine in feel they may have been, but that's just what the current fashion zeitgeist dictates. Belted suede and tie dye coats, dark denim flares and embroidered flappy collars were a nod to a seventies silhouette. Bee and butterfly motifs on tops and sweaters were playful but it was the silky pyjama style shirts and jackets and the unexpectedly placed embroidery on the tailoring – fluid and lightweight – that is really cementing Michele's place on the fashion radar.

– Catherine Hayward


Giorgio Armani

 

Tailored suits with a relaxed spirit on the runway of the new #GiorgioArmani show. #MFW16

A photo posted by Armani Official (@armani) on


Mr Armani stuck to what he knows best for his Spring Summer ’16 collection, paraded in his enormous show space on Tuesday morning. Slouchy, soft, deconstructed tailoring dominated, and a pale summery palette prevailed. A noticeable shift from previous season was in trouser shapes. Where a tapered style was the taste of seasons past, right now it’s all about a wider hem. One of the key elements of the show was a geometric waistcoat worn without a shirt beneath a double-breasted jacket worn open. Elegant and louche, there was a definite note of American Gigolo about the collection – pertinent; given this is Armani’s 40th year in the business.

– Teo van den Broeke

What do you think?

Church's Derby Shoes
Shoes
Share
The 8 Pairs Of Shoes Every Man Should Own
Men's fashion might often feel like an ever-changing carousel of what's hot, what's not, and what might be hot come A/W 2032, but our edit...
Gear
Share
The Best Wireless Headphones To Stick It To Apple With
​No headphone port? No problem. Turn the iPhone 7's latest 'innovation' to your advantage by investing in a pair of top-notch wireless...
Adidas R1 NMD
Shoes
Share
One Of Adidas' Most-Coveted Trainers Is Finally Coming Back
​​Second time lucky?​
Style
Share
Style Hacks: How To Wear A Breton Top
​Three ways to master the classic pattern
H&M
Style
Share
Watch David Beckham And Kevin Hart Wreck Their Tour Bus In New H&M Video
Will they ever get to Vegas​?
Apple Watch 2
Watches
Share
The 10 Best Smartwatches
​The wearable tech that's as stylish as it is cutting-edge​
Common Projects Chelsea Boots
Shoes
Share
An Expert Guide To Choosing Your Perfect Autumn/Winter Boots
​The 5 classic boot styles you need to know about for Autumn ​
Style
Share
Tom Hiddleston Looks Ridiculously Dapper In The New Gucci Tailoring Campaign
No vests allowed
iPhone 7
Gear
Share
The Brilliant Tip That Makes Any iPhone Run 10 Times Faster
And it only takes 10 seconds
Gear
Share
Ten Great 1990s Supercars You Totally Forgot
Only 1990s kids will remember these supercars