New openings and old classics in the heart of Soho.
In need of sustenance in central London? There are worse places to look right now than Brewer Street. Soho is almost embarrassingly flush with places to eat and drink (see the Soho guide in Esquire’s June issue for a full guide…), but here are three dining destinations that won’t steer you wrong.
Just a few feet away from Hawksmoor’s latest mammoth opening comes this opulent Danish restaurant (although, confusingly, MASH stands for ‘Modern American Steak House’).
The low-lit room can accommodate a massive 350 covers, and there’s a spacious private dining room replete with its own Nebuchadnezzar-filled glass wine cellar. Friendly and knowledgeable bar staff mix a mean martini (made with tonka bean-infused Ketel One vodka), but the main event is, of course, the steak.
Look out for the beautifully tender Uruguayan fillet, and MASH’s trademark Danish longhorn rib-eye. Vegetarians beware - all others proceed with enthusiasm.
mashsteak.dk | 0207 734 2608
Mele e Pere
Having opened in February, this buzzy Italian restaurant is now really finding its feet. Mele e Pere means ‘apples and pears’ in Italian, and its main restaurant is located past an ornamental selection of the aforementioned fruit, and down a flight of stairs.
The dining room is bustling and convivial, with a handsome copper bar at the front perfect for an aperitivo (see above). Food-wise, Mele e Pere offers a selection small sharing portions (of course) and they’re generally very good. The arancini and fried jalapenos, in particular, are both worth elbowing your guests out of the way for. The mains are also superb - highlights include the roasted wild duck, braised Savoy cabbage and quince purée, and the potato gnocchi with Italian black truffle and white truffle oil. Buono.
meleepere.co.uk | 020 7096 2096
Not even faintly new:
An oldie but a goodie – Esquire’s resident chef Mark Hix overseas one of London’s finest meateries. Downstairs, Mark's Bar is the perfect place to while away an afternoon or evening (or, frankly, entire weekend).
Upstairs, the HIX team serves classic British produce – refined, seasonal and immaculately cooked. There’s a reason this is where Esquire’s infamous Christmas lunch is held. Order a Hix Fix and relax - you’re home.
hixsoho.co.uk | 020 7292 3518