A kebab platter sounds more like something on the menu of our local Doner Palace. Put it in the hands of Dockmaster's House executive chef Navin Bhatia, however, and the result is a little more sophisticated - enormous prawns, tender lamb and pork, subtly spiced. Everything we tasted - from the poussin to pannacotta - was lightly and interestingly done, and the suggested wine pairings spot-on.
The restaurant itself is a sleekly converted, listed three-storey Georgian building tucked away somewhere near Canary Wharf, but you’ll need maps, sat nav, or a killer sense of direction to find it. We would definitely go back – if we could remember how to get there. West India Quay, 1 Hertsmere Road, London E14