With Graduate Fashion Week 2010 on the horizon we thought it only right and proper to give you a sneak peek at the up-and-coming menswear designers that have made an impression on us this year. Here’s our pick from the River Island sponsored event.
Thomas Crisp, Ravensbourne University
Describing his design style as,” Sophisticated, modern, urban, structural and chic”, Crisp’s collection, ‘Guilded Youth,’ is named after an 1800s Parisian street-gang famed for their brutal violence and excellent dress-sense. The items on show will comprise of shrunken suits and leathers in an array of colours and fabrics offset with digital prints that evoke the qualities of smoke on silk jersey scarves, jersey and leather t-shirts and skinny-fit drop-crotch trousers.
Olivia Coskie, UCA Epsom
Olivia’s outfits are derived from a combination of military wear and early twentieth century miner’s uniforms, juxtaposing work wear and formal wear throughout the collection. Utilising varied textures and colour tones Coskie experiments with textiles and fabric - especially Denim and Knitwear in her show. With a colour palette inspired by rusty machines in a Belgian factory Coskie’s designs promises to be eclectic and original.
In her own words Armstrong’s designs are, “creative and full of happy accidents”, something certainly embodied in her GFW entry this year. Aiming to capture masculinity in a youthful and exciting manner, Armstrong gives a fresh and innovative look to formally generic garments. Drawing inspiration from often overlooked traditional attire her GFW collection finds its genesis in Native American tribal uniforms.
Gary James Butterfield
With an aim to, “Change the norm of menswear”, Butterfield creates edgy and contemporary clothing, taking influence from the work of Hussein Chalayan and his innovative use of material. Butterfield’s collection turns classic items on their heads, such as fitted blazers made from laser-cut hair on hide. The work is a reflection of his love of the London Underground and the unique areas of cultures and designs that it regularly brings him into contact with.
Elizabeth Oakley, Westminister
With a focus on androgyny Oakley’s collection toys with the concept of gender. Taking traditional men’s tailoring for the cut and silhouette before adding a contemporary twist by experimenting with body modification, Oakley’s collection - modeled on woman - challenges the preconceptions of men’s fashion. .
Graduate Fashion Week 2010 is held at Earls Court, London from 6-10 June.
Words by Jordan Waller