The last rosé of summer

Summer's on its last legs, which means that rosé season is nearly finished for another year. But there could be time to squeeze in one last bottle.

The correlation between one’s enjoyment of a glass of rosé and the temperature passing 25 Celsius is almost magical (seeing the condensation on the very cold bottle is a necessary element of this alchemy).

This summer the best we drank was Chateau de Selle from Domaine Ott but not far behind was Chateau St Baillon, a modestly priced Provencal rosé with an exquisitely pale onionskin colour.

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Quite how it manages to taste complex and fulfilling, while being so light and refreshing, we’re not sure. But should the mercury rise high enough to deliver another warm evening we’ll be jumping at the chance to contemplate this paradox again.

£7.68 at www.bibendum-wine.co.uk