When celebrated chef Alain Ducasse lent his name to a new central London restaurant back in 2007, it wasn't the instant success everyone anticipated, but on our visit there last week we found a revitalised establishment that has not only upped its game considerably, but earned two coveted Michelin stars in as many years.
When you're - somewhat reverentially - ushered through the doors into Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, the first things you'll notice are the generously-proportioned tables (no crockery Jenga required here) and the wealth of natural light.
The second are the prices: though the menu was roundly criticised early on for the outlay required to eat there, it has since been adjusted to cater for a broader range of budgets, and the set lunch of £45 for three courses with amuse-bouche, two glasses of wine, half a bottle of mineral water, coffee and petit fours is, in our book, worthy of a heavily-accented "formidable" or two.
And as we're always in favour of making a good thing last, we approved of the management's willingness to package up our untouched petits fours (comprising salted butter caramels, chocolate hazelnuts, praline and dark chocolate ganaches, and lavender, vanilla, and pistachio macaroons) to enjoy back at the office. The world's best doggy-bag? We're inclined to think so. Park Lane, London W1 (020 7629 8866)