Esquire's fashion team pick their highlights from day two of London Collections: Men.
New lines from Christopher Raeburn, Richard James and Hackett all star.
Don't forget to check out our picks from day one too.
Recipient of the British Fashion Awards' emerging talent prize in 2011, creative director at Victorinox Christopher Raeburn's eponymous label is living up to expectation. His AW '14 collection was solid, adult and, above all, saleable. From high function (not to mention hi-vis) quilted jumpers layered beneath bombers in tonal shades, to the powder blue parkas which came teamed with waxed cotton trousers, nothing here was superfluous to requirements (apart from, perhaps, the blonde, faux fur teddy bear coats that closed the show). The kind of stuff you'd feel as comfortable wearing on a hike in Snowdonia as you would splashing about in St James' Park, this was an accomplished and – perhaps unsurprisingly – understated offering.
Teo van den Broeke
After witnessing a chaotic round of menswear shows over the last 24 hours, there is something quietly reassuring about a Margaret Howell show. Offering a little respite from the pervading mood of drum and bass currently doing the fashion show rounds, Howell's pared back collection offered a glimpse into what the 'non-fashion'-style man will be wearing next season. Taking London's grey, stormy skies that has continued to drench the international guests as a direct colour inspiration for her Autumn 2014 collection, Howell sent out her ubiquitous untucked cotton shirts, under soft unstructured boxy wool jackets and waxed cotton hooded parka's in a moody palette of inky blues, mossy green and charcoal grey's. Slim cuffed trousers that grazed the top of her calf grain chunky boots demonstrated a uniform that Howell's die hard fans will find hard to resist.
Entitled the New Edwardians, Savile Row tailor Richard James presented a collection that adhered to the neat proportions of a swinging 60's London. Luckily for us James' didn't commit to psychedelia, but opted for the richer warmer tones of claret, chocolate and olive that ran across traditional British fabrics of herringbone, windowpane & puppy tooth. Proportions were neat and shortened across the tailored jackets that switched from narrow shawl collars to shrunken peak lapels. Short cuffed tapered trousers reinforcing the slim silhouette. An Esquire favourite was the chocolate boucle wool over coat. Military details on outerwear peppered the collection with shoulder epaulettes & Nehru collars, while a bit of old fashion sixties glamour closed the show with shawl collared lurex evening wear jackets.
Clive Derby and Will Adams have come up with something quite special at Rake. Tailoring with a 'fashion' edge is tricky to pull off, and has seen others fail miserably in the past, but it's a concept Adams and Derby pulled off with panache with their AW'14 collection. From leather trimmed trench coats to perfectly cut flannel trousers, cashmere-soft cotton collarless shirts and - of course - expertly tailored jackets (both Adams and Derby cut their teeth at Kilgour) there was little to fault with this show. The pair even managed to make the conker brown lederhosen, which were littered inexplicably throughout, look wearable. No mean feat.
Teo van den Broeke