LC:M A/W ’15 Day One Review

The verdict on the first round of menswear shows, from Topman to Coach

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1 | Aquascutum

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Aquascutum's creative director Thomas Harvey's excellently laid back demeanour belies the exacting elegance of his product.

Shown in the round in a static presentation in London's ICA, shades of grey were abundant with layers of petrol and RAF blue and cream interwoven throughout.

Though slim cut suiting prevailed, the beauty of this collection was really in the outerwear. The pieces that stole the show included a steam sealed dove grey puffa jacket; a double breasted slate alpaca overcoat and a remarkably soft leather bomber in an alluring shade of grey green.

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– Teo van den Broeke


2 | Private White

Season on season, Private White V.C. offers up a few real menswear gems. In the past the Goodwood work suit was a personal favourite of mine, even if I would only wear it to work on the beaten up old Austin Healey, that I don't own.

The stars of AW15 are the coats and the footwear. There's a beautiful unstructured grey wool work coat that's light enough to be comfy, but sturdy enough to be smart. And the range of shearling collared bombers shows the brand considers its aesthetic and adapts it for the modern vernacular.

The real treat however is a pair of grain leather boots (below) which were made with the help of Northampton shoemaker, Joseph Cheaney. I'm reliably informed that they're built from the exact last used for WW2 soldiers' footwear, so it's safe to say the design is tried and tested.

The verdict: subtle, but timelessly stylish.

– Charlie Teasdale

3 | Coach
 

 

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American leather goods brand Coach has long been better known for its handbags than its ready to wear clothing. For Autumn / Winter '15, nascent creative director Stuart Vevers – formerly of Spanish leather goods brand Loewe – has taken the label's fashion credentials up a gear.

Vevers' first menswear collection, shown in London today, was a case in point. The focus was, of course, on leather, but instead of feeling one note (a fate which befalls many a brand to branch out of its comfort zone) the collection had depth and felt relevant.

Cotton donkey jackets with leather patches, oversized parkas finished with enormous fur trims and sumptuous leather overshirts were desirable; while the chunky white tennis shoes with shearling trim felt playful and cool without being silly. Even the oversized shearling fur coats in bottle green and chocolate brown looked stylish and wearable. Impressive.

– Teo van den Broeke

4 | Neale
 

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Another inexperienced designer may have panicked at the prospect of preceding Stuart Vevers' luxury foray into menswear at Coach this afternoon. Yet New Gen designer Kit Neale displayed true chutzpah with his first salon show at Victoria House.

Set to a macabre merry-go-round soundtrack, the young designer took his inspiration from Schiaparelli's 1938 circus collection, exploring further his tongue-in-cheek take on British culture. Colour block shirts and shorts were covered in bold typographical prints inspired by graphic designers Barney Bubbles and Job Wouters, which were then layered with workwear style jackets.

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One quirky t-shirt bore the slogan 'No teddy bears were harmed in the making of this shirt' yet was promptly layered with mohair 'teddy bear' fur textured jackets, polished felt hats and printed leather rucksacks. Kit Neale's enthusiasm and sense of humour is infectious amongst a sea of black and navy.

– Catherine Hayward

5 | MAN

A three pronged show, young designers Liam Hodges, Nicomede Talavera and Rory Parnell Mooney revaled their respective AW15 collections at the Old Sorting Office.

Rory Parnell Mooney's first collection proper illustrated his penchant for ecclesiastical uniform, with blocks of black and dark navy punctuated by flashed of white and colour. The trousers were light and very loose, coats were big and billowy and there was freyed detailing galore.

Showing with MAN for the second time, Talavera's collection fused traditional Muslim dress and street wear. We saw cropped octopus pants, side popper trousers and oversized Tees, each with an overriding eastern motif. The silhouettes were busy and the vibe was positively samurai.

It was the second MAN show too for Liam Hodges, who presented his collection of 'totally safe classics'. There was an air of football terrace chic with bonded outerwear and patch pockets dotted across Jersey tailoring.

The overall verdict? It would seem that religious garb and urban attire have found one another for AW15.

– Charlie Teasdale

6 | Topman

There was a distinct seventies feel to Topman's Autumn / Winter '15 collection. Raw denim kick flares, plush shaved faux fur bomber jackets and fringed suede safari coats rubbed along with drapey pinstripe suits and sumptuous brushed degrade wool pea and overcoats.

A mixed bag in the best possible sense, the trend for tailoring worn with sneakers and bowling shoes was still going strong, while thin gauge roll necks were worn beneath everything: from patchwork Harrington jackets, to cluster patterned shirts and four button double breasted suit jackets.

What did we take from today's Topman show? Next winter it's all about a seventies silhouette. Oh, and don't be scared to play with pattern.

– Teo van den Broeke

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THE SHOWS:

Topman
Aquascutum
Man
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