LC:M A/W ’15 Day Two Review

The looks we're getting excited about, from Lou Dalton to Agi & Sam

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1 | Lou Dalton

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"Lou Dalton is heading into grown up territory and is all the better for it. Supported by The Woolmark Company as well as Cerruti, her collection was all about soft tailoring and construction. "It's who we are and what we do" she says.

"And the proof was in the pudding. Slim line gilets were zippered onto fleece jackets, single breasted jackets were constructed with webbed tape and pull ties – revealing internal panels. Hooded parkas played with proportion with extra volume in the rear, and she pulled off the perfect trouser shape of the season – a shorter, wider silhouette which tapered to just above the ankle boot.

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"Tone on tone shades were juxtaposed with dusty greens and pinks and some quirky Thunderbirds cartoon strip prints brought some humour to the mix. With the extra financial clout,  Dalton has certainly come of age."

– Catherine Haywood


2 | Hardy Amies

"With its new design director – the dapper and implausibly youthful-looking Mehmet Ali – and a smart new Savile Row store refit from Ace Hotel/ Frieze London architects Universal Design Studio, the label that once dressed both Queen Victoria and the 1966 England World Cup team is marching inexorably into the 21st Century. Recent Hardy hits have included amazing reversible bridge coats and an impressive use of print and colour, notably blue and yellow, updated from designs from the brand’s own archive.

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"Amies was one of the first European designers to pioneer ready-to-wear for men, so it’s fitting that today’s collection was big not just on tailoring but on functional separates: fur hooded parkas, chunky tube rope knits and degrade mohair jumpers.

"Suits came in check terracotta and oversized birdseye speckled wool, and the accessories were uniformly excellent: rope canvas backpacks, oversized zip totes and a new shoe collaboration with Tricker's. Versatile and individual without being shouty, it was one of those show where you wanted to wear everything yourself. And you can't always say that..."

– Johnny Davies 


3 | Agi & Sam

"After their whirlwind early success, A/W15 is something of a tricky second album for Agi & Sam. The pair's new collection takes its inspiration from school wear (they consulted kids, seriously) so there's a childlike feel to it all.

"The focus is on construction, so jackets are turned inside out to reveal their inner workings, coats are abound with patchwork and trouser linings are on show.

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"A healthy mix of ready-to-go pieces and conceptual designs, there are graphic knits, duffel detailing on wool over coats and reimagined tailoring, where a good portion of the patterns are missing altogether.

"The palette? Navy, grey and orange. The verdict? Any concerns over the album have been banished. Agi & Sam's A/W15 is great. Oh – and a fantastic use of Lego."

– Charlie Teasdale


4 | Oliver Spencer

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"Oliver Spencer can always be relied upon to lift the spirits.

Last season's show was soundtracked by a live drum troupe, while today's was set to the sound of near-eastern music collective The Turbans. Though all Spencer's collections feature soft, work wear-inspired tailoring, this season felt more focused. The silhouette was sharper and fabrics felt rich and expensive. Trousers were  loose yet tapered and just slim enough – the best cut from soft flecked lambswool.

"The chocolate alpaca bombers and overcoats were a particular highlight, while zip-up wool shirt jackets in midnight blue and charcoal were worn over fine gauge roll necks in tonal shades. Grown up, desirable and luxurious, Oliver Spencer's AW'15 collection is everything British menswear should be."

– Teo van den Broeke


5 | John Lobb

"The first collection by new creative director Paula Gerbase, John Lobb's A / W '15 selection looks to tell the story of the company's founder, and his walk from Cornwall to London.

"Seriously, in 1851, a 22-year-old John Lobb set off from Dartmoor in a pair of homemade shoes. And you complain about the walk to the tube.

"One of the stand out creations is a pair of deep green leather boots, something I expressed to Paula. "John Lobb is renowned for being an boot maker," she said, "so it was really important to make a fantastic pair of boots. Thankfully that's no problem for our master craftsmen in Northampton."

"Further highlights include a fine pair of deep blue double monks (below), suede chukkas and even non-welted leather plimsolls. The latter are a handsome edition to Lobb's offering, and illustrate a willingness to be current, which for an age old company is hugely important.

"Gerbase has done what every new creative director looks to do in an inaugural collection – stamp their mark, but avoid stepping on too many toes. The designs are still recognisably Lobbian (beautifully simple; impeccably made), but with a frisson of something new, and little grittier. If you consider a chunky sole to be gritty, that is, which I do."

- Charlie Teasdale
 

6 | Christopher Raeburn

"The Kent-born designer once characterised his signatures as “desirability, detail, function and fun”. A passion for outdoorsy-ness and making things comes from his upbringing: as a boy his dad encouraged him to construct the ideas he’d drawn at the kitchen table, and he was off learning to fly with the cadets at 11.

"A serial collaborator – he has produced clothing for Fred Perry, Rapha, Barbour, Porter and Moncler as well as serving as the artistic director of Victorinox – you sometimes wonder where he finds the time, but it’s with his own line that we really get the measure of the man. Raeburn’s love of technical and military fabrics is a USP: parachutes repurposed as macs and reconfigured (genuine) MIG fighter pilot suits have both found their way onto the catwalk in previous outings.

"For A/W '15 he drew inspiration from survival and endurance at sea: the pre show soundtrack was a queasy mix of clanks and crashes that seemed to come from a ship listing on rough waters. There were seafaring inpired quilted duffle coats, macs and parkas in bright blues and reds. Sweatshirts and jogging bottoms came emblazoned with laser etched arrows inspired by the graphics on life rafts, as well as shark motifs. Sturdy combat pants came cut from hefty wool denim from Japan.

"Best accessories of LC:M so far? Oversized holdalls in the shape of sharks, plus a rucksack reusing original material from a raft. Remember the four Rs: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Raeburn."

– Johnny Davis

 

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THE SHOWS:

Lou Dalton
Agi & Sam
Hardy Amies
Oliver Spencer
Christopher Raeburn
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