LC:M A/W ’15 Day Four Review

The best looks from the final day of shows

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1 | Craig Green

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"It was always going to be tricky for young British designer Craig Green to top his first solo show, which resulted in tears (of Joy, or the like) from many top fashion editors.

"Playing on themes set last season, Green's Autumn / Winter '15 collection was composed, elegant and self-assured. Green's approach to colour is spartan and uniform – shades of white, midnight blue, bright red, forest green and black were shown block and not mixed.

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"Utilitarian layers worked in simple contrast to skin tight undershirts with plaited details. Clever and intriguing, Green's Autumn / Winter '15 show may not have featured saleable winter coats, but that it posed questions about traditional menswear tropes was enough."

- Teo van den Broeke


2 | Tom Ford

“Set to Robert Palmer's classic track 'Addicted to Love', Tom Ford cleverly stage managed his presentation this season.

“A pure white coved studio set was book-ended by two enormous beauty spot lights - a sure fire way to ensure the quality of any Tom Ford images appearing on social media. After five seasons of banning Instagram, it seemed the modern way to embrace digital coverage.

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“Tailoring was slim line, graphic and monochrome with a definite ‘60s vibe. Yet the more casual pieces veered into ‘70s 'Love Story' territory with a camel duffle, tan and denim shearlings and faded denim.

“Knitwear followed a new season trend with roll necks layered over shirts and contrasting V-necks. It was a master class in casual dressing.”

- Catherine Hayward


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Catch up with our daily reviews:

Day One - Topman, Aquascutum, Coach
Day Two - Agi & Sam, Lou Dalton, Hardy Amies
Day Three - Alexander McQueen, Gieves & Hawkes, Dunhill
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3 | Burberry

"Where other designers are at pains to keep things paired back and minimal, Burberry have never been scared of making a big noise. Held in the now traditional site of an enormo-tent in Kensington Gardens, this was the LC:M hot ticket – as emphasised by an appearance of Anna Wintour in the front row.

"Singer Clare Maguire was backed by a 10-piece choir and strings, and belted out songs including T Rex’s ‘Tiny Dancer’ and The Animals ‘House Of The Rising Sun’. ‘Classically bohemian’ was what Christopher Bailey was calling this collection: look after look of vibrant colour and classic tailoring. Suede, tasseled scarves emblazoned with sequins, fringed ponchos, shearling bomber jackets and a new Carryall bag in soft leather were highlights.

"Burberry continued a theme that has worked so well for them the last couple of seasons: classic looks in a riot of artfully chosen shades and patterns, with accessories to raid the bank for. It ended in a hail of silver glitter descending on the models. And why not? This was a celebration of everything that’s great about menswear."

- Johnny Davies

5 | Tiger Of Sweden

"It's the last day of LC:M A/W '15, and people are starting to flag a little bit. Four days of running around, barely eating and drinking a touch more than you should will take it's toll on anyone, especially if the rain decides to set in, which it did. Tiger of Sweden, therefore, had a tough crowd to impress…

"It all started very Kraftwerky – the suiting looks were monochrome, and quite sharply cut, although that sharpness occasionally verged on skinny. The various cloths were abundant with prints: windowpanes, thick stripes, pinstripes, Tron-like geometrics, futuristic tartans (is 'Highlander chic' a thing?). Impressively though, there was a common theme to it all – something brands with collections as large as ToS often struggle to achieve.

"The trousers were high waisted, by and large, and there was plenty more of that texture we've been seeing on the runways over the past few days; there was mohair and even neoprene, which came in the form of a pleasantly boxy crew neck sweater. In terms of outerwear, the offering was wide, and it was all the sort of thing Wallander's style-conscious goth offspring might wear for a night out in Stockholm. If that sounds like a negative, it isn't. I was really impressed with the coats.

"Verdict: Good suits, coats, patterns and knitwear – all cut a bit too close for me, but then again, I am still carrying a little Christmas timber about the midrift."

– Charlie Teasdale

 

Look back at the live blog here

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THE SHOWS:

E Tautz
Paul Smith
Burberry Prorsum
Tiger of Sweden
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